IMHO this is the best 10 in all of Shelf. Possibly a little stiff for the grade. I'd almost say more 10d, but the ultimate combination of every type of move and features that I've found at Shelf.
Start two routes left (west) of The Book of Dude-Aronomy, and five routes left of Chunky Monkey. Begin with a rising, right-trending traverse on easy ground to gain a straight-up dihedral-crack system. There are several increasingly difficult sequences the higher you get, but the crux is at the very top; clearing the the lip of the slightly overhanging headwall just below the anchors.
By Brad Short From: Saudia Aurora, CO Nov 14, 2002
I agree with O.F. that the grade may be stiff, especially if you climb straight above the last bolt to the anchors. For those of use with lesser talents and a desire to keep things at 10c; step slightly right (but not too far!) after clipping the last bolt, and follow good pockets to the anchors. A stunning route no matter how it's done.
The grade is definitely not stiff if you climb the 'natural' line which goes slightly right at the last bolt, in which case the crux is relatively short. I guess the anchors were put over to the left a bit so the rope would not hang over the sharp bulge when lowering or top-roping.
By Michael J Yarros From: Colorado Springs, CO Oct 3, 2004 rating: 5.10c
This route was excellent. Steep in sections, and interesting getting to the anchor.
Cactus Cliff
RSS Feed
