Climb the distinctive buttress left of the Gym Arete. A stout beginning leads to good pockets, including the best mono at Shelf. A final crux off a poor undercling leaves most dangling 10 feet lower. A must do for the grade, even if there is still some debate regarding the grade and the "true" line.
Check out The Example's bolts for any issues and check on the history of the old Metolius eye bolts before replacing these bolts. If memory serves, the major issue with the eye bolts was a twisting motion which would loosen the wedge bolt especially in soft rock like Smith. I do not think that any of the bolts are suffering this fate on the Example, but the anchors, with the toy store chain sure could be moved down 3 or 4 feet and spruced up.
I concur with the original 13a/b rating. This route is considerably harder than other a's at shelf, and more in line with many of the so-called b's...I'm a little short though. It's nice because it's actually not a one-move wonder like most the other hard routes at Shelf.
This has to be the best pocketed limestone route in the U.S. I can't think of anything that even compares, not even at Wild Iris.
Incredible route. But I'm also more than a little suspicous about the "best mono at Shelf". Funny that this and My Generation are both given 13a in the new guide, yet this is miles harder.
By Zed From: Gotham City Sep 8, 2007 rating: 5.13a/b
Of all of the routes I have climbed at Shelf, I seriously hate this route. The rock is beautiful the movement good. But the holds cut and destroyed my tendons like no other. Everytime I got on it I swore I would never do that again. This route for me is The Example of what NOT to climb!
I would also like to thank whoever fixed draws on this route, once again this climb is "The Example" of how the future of sport climbing could be....
However, Im not really sure what all the hype is about, this is extremely sharp, the moves on the 13a variation go way off route around the corner, and I don't feel that it is really has very fun movement. Pretty line, but I certainly hope this isnt the "route to do" on visiting climbers ticklists...
By Ian Spencer-Green From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 9, 2009 rating: 5.13a
I cranked this route when I was 13 years old. I feel it is an absolutely stellar line and recommend it highly. Go straight up at the crux though, I am surprised anyone would consider traversing around the corner at the crux, as the crux is the funnest part of the route.
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Left Hand Canyon, CO Jul 22, 2009
I agree Ian, it never occured to me to traverse way off route and around the corner. My top 3 at Shelf for sure.
I'm floored by some of the comments above. Why in the world would you traverse to avoid the crux? And sharp? Welcome to Shelf. Just because this route seems to occasionally bout 5.14 climbers does not mean it is lacking in quality.
The good thing about this route is that a lot of people like it. I was just offering my 2 cents about it, becuase when I'm looking at routes it's nice to know what a lot of people think. I probably am just not tough enough to pull on those pockets! I mean, it's not like I've climbed at Shelf very much anyway, so I just need to get used to it, right? Sorry I hurt your feelings Example, but I mean you've REALLY hurt those 5.14 climbers egos, too:( I just think some of your other friends are a little more fun to climb on! Fortunately, there are lots of other people who are all fired up and like you better!
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