The Example 

Peter, the Access Fund and numerous other folks have done a lot of work on trails and replacing old gear at Shelf Road, especially at Cactus Cliff and The Gym. I have replaced at least 75-100 hangers myself and know of other folks who have worked on replacing out-of-date gear and anchors. Feel free to replace any old bolts or anchors on your next trip to Shelf. I know its a little bit more work than buying someone a beer but your efforts will be deeply appreciated. Thanks, Bob

Check out The Example's bolts for any issues and check on the history of the old Metolius eye bolts before replacing these bolts. If memory serves, the major issue with the eye bolts was a twisting motion which would loosen the wedge bolt especially in soft rock like Smith. I do not think that any of the bolts are suffering this fate on the Example, but the anchors, with the toy store chain sure could be moved down 3 or 4 feet and spruced up.

I concur with the original 13a/b rating. This route is considerably harder than other a's at shelf, and more in line with many of the so-called b's...I'm a little short though. It's nice because it's actually not a one-move wonder like most the other hard routes at Shelf.

This has to be the best pocketed limestone route in the U.S. I can't think of anything that even compares, not even at Wild Iris.

Incredible route. But I'm also more than a little suspicous about the "best mono at Shelf". Funny that this and My Generation are both given 13a in the new guide, yet this is miles harder.

This route kicks ass.

Of all of the routes I have climbed at Shelf, I seriously hate this route. The rock is beautiful the movement good. But the holds cut and destroyed my tendons like no other. Everytime I got on it I swore I would never do that again. This route for me is The Example of what NOT to climb!

Thanks to whoever put the fixed draws up!