Follow the bolts between "Smokin' Crack" and "Dealin' Crack" up face, up an arete, and over overlaps to a belay ledge. This route is shown in William Prehm's photo topo as "The General (5.12a)". I'll stick with the original name of "Cosmic Thing" and the original grade of 5.12b. It's a great pitch.
Fun route, but ain't no way its 3 stars or 12b. Van Horn's guide calls it 11d/12a, and I'd put it on the lower end of that range when compared to other routes of the grade at Shelf.
I got on this route today and I really liked it. I felt that the crux was in the section when your right hand is on the arete down near the bottom half. I had to do a pretty big lunge up to a good pocket with my left hand while pinching with my right. After this section the holds get better but the route gets a lot more overhung. Very pumpy finish! I would give it a solid 12a. Great route.
Menses Prow
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