Follow bolts up a finger crack in a left-facing corner, past a flake (crux), and more finger crack leads out a small roof to the chains. If you're interested, you could trad lead this easily and safely with small cams, nuts and a few mid size cams for the flake.
Per Ivan Rezucha: Layback the flake (crux) and make some tenuous moves (also crux?) to another flake. You can rest with a foot jam after surmounting the first flake. Some easy moves lead to a fun roof and the anchors.
Eds. Note: this is a combination of 2 submissions combined into one for organization purposes.
Protection
About 6 bolts or gear. Would be a safe easy gear lead with small nuts and some small to mid-sized cams.
Location
Two lines left of Barney (12a Freeform is in between). Named for the small stump in the crack below the high first bolt!
Per Ivan Rezucha: Left of Karma Mechanic is a smooth wall with a bunch of 11 or harder lines. Left of that is a left-facing corner/chimney. Just left of that is a flake leading to a shallow, left-facing corner. There is currently a stick (remainder of a bush) sticking out of the crack below the first bolt.
By Sirius From: Oakland, CA May 13, 2004 rating: 5.9+
Perfect name - big, wooden scythe intimidates you and motivates you to not even consider falling. I've never clung so tightly to the rock on a lead. This harks back to the philosophical golden days of leading: Leader Must Not Fall. Wouldn't be pretty if you did...
Great route, too. The lieback flake is positive with perfect holds to oppose the feet. Once you gain the ledge you'll see an anchor to your left, a roof above you. Don't scurry to the anchors!! The roof is pulled on immaculate and generous holds, then there's grass in your face until the anchors. A diverse climb that provides a many-tiered experience for the leader. Three stars for singularity.
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