Anyone who slags Shelf for being too slabby (as I sometimes do when my terrible footwork is exposed) should definitely get on this climb. Campus the initial overhang into a pod, then swing though pleasant moves on big holds for about 20 feet. At the fourth bolt, the jug-hauling ends abruptly. A big crank from thin holds to thinner ones is where your onsight attempt ends. Suss out the reachy crux move, cruise throught the 5.11 moves on ther upper face, and pull your cord for the redpoint. A great climb (but watch out for a sharp r. hand pocket when setting up for the crux -- I sliced my finger wide open in it.)
How is this not 3 stars?? Freaking awesome! Some of the most continuously high quality rock and movement at Shelf.
By Ken Cangi From: Boulder, CO Jul 26, 2005 rating: 5.12b/c
Excellent route. The crux is brief, but the climbing above the bulge is fun.
By Bill Ballace From: Wheat Ridge , CO Feb 3, 2006 rating: 5.12b
The key to this route was moving through the steep lower part quickly. There is a place to shake out and chalk before the crux but I couldn't get a great rest here so dialing the steepness was a must. Definitely one of the more unique routes at Shelf and a nice change of pace from the mostly vertical climbing there.
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