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Abracadabra 
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Abracadabra 

5.9

   
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FA: unknown
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 289 page views

Submitted By: montay on Jan 1, 2001


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Description 

To find this route, hike west along the base of the wall on the "far side" until you are fairly close to the incredible hulk boulder. At this point, the far side wall will have a few detached and semi-detached pillars that make it a bit maze like. Hike west and slightly left, around a corner and there will be a nice recessed area with very dark rock. In this recess is sort of a pillar sandwiched between two walls. This is Abradacadbra and at the base of this route there is plenty of room to set up shop.

Abracadabra is one of the best 9s at Shelf (IMHO). It isn't as long as Lumina (on the dark side), but the rock quality is comparable (very good).

If you can get through the first 2 bolts you are in like flynn. The top section is a little bit runout, but the climbing is several grades easier at this point. This route makes a good warm-up in the summer time as it is in the shade most of the day. Enjoy.


Protection 

4 bolts and anchors.



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By Michael Amato
Oct 18, 2004
rating: 5.9+

Many of the lower holds on this route have become quite polished since I first climbed it eight years ago making it feel a bit tougher than 5.9. Use care at the second bolt.