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Bad Brains 

5.12a

   

FA: Don Goodhue, 1989
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 178 page views

Submitted By: montay on Jan 1, 2001


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Description 

A one move wonder, but the rest of the climbing is pretty fun, too.

To locate this route, hike up the Sand Gulch Canyon to the Freefrom Wall. At the left end of the wall is a yawning chimney with red home made hangers. This is "Barney (5.9)".

Just to the right of this route is a bolted line that goes through a funky pod. This route is Bad Brains.

The crux comes on this one real early. With an open mind and some creativity it goes somewhat easily (for the grade). After you have solved the crux, continue upwards on fun moves that are probably 5.9ish. Keep heading up and slightly right to the anchors on "Helter Skelter".


Protection 

6 bolts to "Helter Skelter" anchors.



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By Kristoffer Schmarr
From: Denver, CO
Nov 17, 2008

Hard, no matter which way you go about it. You will be pulling on small/sharp crimps or terrible pockets for the crux sequence. Height won't really help you out either. Enjoy the first two bolts, bust the crux, clip 3, hold it together thru the balancy moves to the anchors. Not soft for the grade IMHO.