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Freeform 

5.12a

   

FA: Richard Aschert, Dave Dangle and Darrly Roth
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 607 page views

Submitted By: montay on Jan 1, 2001


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Photo by Tracy.


Description 

An exceptional route that will demand strength, technique, and innovation. This is a Shelf Road top 10 (IMHO).

To find this route, hike up to the Free Form Wall in the Sand Gulch canyon. Towards the far left end of this wall is a yawning chimney with red home made hangers. This bolted chimney is "Barney (5.9)". to the left of this is "Freeform". It is noticeable by the steep, somewhat left-leaning arete-like prow at the top.

Chalk up, load yer guns, and keep the children off the street.

Cruise upwards past the first 4 bolts on fun face moves. Be sure to save most of your ammo for the top. Milk the rest at the beginning of the business (if you need to). Fire up through the last 4 bolts on crimps and little pockets. It is a wee bit steep through here, so do whatever you can to help your arms out. This part begs for technical footwork and body position. Good luck!


Protection 

8 bolts and anchors.


Location 

From Bill Ballace, towards the left of Free Form Wall, this is the proudest line on the wall. It ascends the obvious and gently overhanging, rounded prow up top.



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By Mark Eller
Nov 6, 2001

Best .12a at Shelf! Reachy, thin and nasty on the initial slab, but outstanding moves follow: powerful and technical pockets and an in-your-face crux when you pull the final bulge.

By Mike Sofranko
Nov 27, 2001

Awesome route! I got denied both times I tried it, but it's still one of my favorite examples of the genre anywhere. Do this route!

By Stephan Greenway
Feb 25, 2003

Agreed...one of the finest 12a's at Shelf!

By Andrew Iltis
From: Denver, CO
Jun 12, 2007

This fantastic route is broken into two sections: a tricky slab, and a rounded overhanging prow, separated by a monster rest. Great onsight potential if you can sequence the upper pocket section just right on your first go. Hint: If you give up the onsite, you can take a look at the upper sequence from the line to the right of Free Form called Barney (pumpy 5.9).