This route is located on the left end of the 'Cactus Rose Crag' This line is the 2nd route from the far left, starting directly in front of pine tree. The climbing is quite continuous on small pockets, sloping ledges. A good route but could be easily underestimated. At the anchor, you can lower from a rap ring on a sling anchor. You can also toprope this route by going around the corner to the left from the base and up through an easy chimney to the top where there are trees to belay from. Have fun. This is not a great warm up, but a decent intermediate route.
If I remember right, the tree that is beneath this climb has a very sharp, dead limb at the top. If it is still there you definitely don't want to fall on it. We're talkin' guts everywhere!
The best solotion if the climb is really so dangerous is to either stay away from it, bolt it better (with consideration for tree growth) or to have had it never put in. Since #2 and #3 are not realistic...maybe don't climb it, or get permission from the FA party to add a bolt. I'd rather see a bolt added than a tree removed. Better yet, just make sure your belayer is super attentive near any such fall potential. Careful about doing something as drastic as cutting a tree on public land. If it's private property, then obviously its up to the land owner. I've seen tree removal cause significant hard feelings, access issues, or a dislike of climbers on both public and private land. It might also land you in court and/or jail. My opinon is that removing lichens from a route is one thing- cutting down a large tree is quite a bit more... of course it is debatable. This is my opinion- other's will vary. -Tony Bubb
Sounds like its bolted pretty well to me, as you only "almost" hit the tree. It would be a bad bolting job if you did actually skewer yourself. Remove the tree and you'll understand why so many land managers have issues with climbing, especially bouldering.
Did this recently - I thought the last move is harder than a 5.10 move (if you stay directly in line with the bolt and anchors).I was not concerned about the tree.
The tree is definitely something to be aware of. I moved slightly right at the last bolt since I wasn't finding anything remotely 10ish straight up.
By Dan Godshall From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 2, 2007 rating: 5.11a
I wasn't too worried about the tree, did not look to be in the fall line. I also moved a bit right at the top which made it more reasonable for a 10d (although overall I thought this was a really hard line to read...more like 11a even once I knew where to go...)
I was just short of being able to clip the anchors from the bolt line, and the last move to get to the anchors seemed much too thin to be 5.10. I ended up going somewhat to the right and then traversing back left to the anchors, clipping from above. This is a nice route, but seems hard for a 10.
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