High up with one clip to go before the anchors on ...
Description
Approximately 60 ft right of Lats is a classic Shelf burl-fest that ascends a smooth, bulging wall, The French Are Here. Starting ten feet left and behind a tree is the line, Gravitations, that ascends the same wall and runs to the same anchor. This is an interesting line chock full of pockets, edges, and a discontinuous seam. It also provides the easy way to get a top-rope on The French which ticks in with a 5.12c sequence pulling through the bulge. However, Gravitations is also a fine line in its own right being solid, continuous, and interesting. It is a bit more run out than The French, but this is largely near the anchor. I thought this was a good route and worth the struggle.
I agree: This is the best route of its grade at Cactus and maybe at all of Shelf. The run-outs are intimidating, but a handful of small to medium cams allows you to protect between the well-spaced bolts. Many ways to climb this -- all pumpy as hell!
This was the best pitch I climbed on my only visit to Cactus Cliff. The bolts are definitely a bit spaced for your typical sport route... and its not like its easy between clips: you certainly have to bust some moves well above bolts. I found it interesting that this route was so easy to get on, whereas I pretty much had to take a number to get on the adjacent "Lats don't have feelings."
A sustained pitch, with interesting moves, a little variety and more excitement than I'm used to finding on a Shelf route. A 1 and/or 1.5 Friend helps de-spice the most runout section.
It occurs to me that with all the comments bout "spice" and runouts, some do-gooder might get the idea to add a bolt or two to Gravitations. Please, please, please don't! The route is great the way it is.
In my opinion, the runouts help make this a 3 star climb. If more closely bolted, it would be just another great Shelf face climb, but much less memorable. It is plenty safe, just a little intimidating. The falls would be clean, the clipping stances are good, and the hardest climbing is all near the bolts. I wish more routes were established as thoughtfully as this one.
Side note, I'm not sure where you would place gear on this route, anything worthwhile anyways.
I agree with MacDonald, definitely established in the old style but the new guide book has it right on... not a ton of protection, but it's right where you want it.
Cactus Cliff
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