The route between Afterburner and Hot Beach. Climbing is exclusively on micro-thin edges that inspire either abject hate or a fascination with the intricate footwork. I love these routes. But, again, a contrast: in a fit of unbridled enthusiasm I once sicked Jim Garber on this, and as I recall, he invoked enough colorful language describing my wretched propensity for sand-bagging to make a sailor proud. Think thin and continuous with finesse in the footwork. Well bolted and won't kill anyone.
This route and Afterburner immediately to the left are both three-star routes in my book, stellar moves all the way to the chains. The left is a bit harder than the right. They are shown in William Prehm's photo topo Cactus Left Two. On that photo they are denoted Tits Up = Unamed A and Hot Beach = Unamed B.
The far right route on the wall is Hot Beach 5.12a/b FA by Bob D'Antonio, Richard Aschert, Dave Dangle, and Darryl Roth, 1986. The route to the left is Tits Up 5.12a/b FA by Richard Aschert and Dave Dangle. The route farthest to the left is Muscle Beach 5.11b/c FA by Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio.
Afterburner starts just left of "Tits Up" and crosses left of Muscle Beach. It should be added to the database: 12b, two stars. Very different from Tits Up, though. It is more sustained and obvious, whereas Tits Up's crux is mysterious and puzzling.
Cactus Cliff
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