At just about the mid-point of Cactus Cliff is a red wall with two lines that nearly converge. The left is Lats and the right is Blood Red wall. For Lats, fire up pockets and edges just left of a block that starts Blood Red. Chase a seam with pockets for an additional half dozen clips. Very continuous 5.11 climbing with no terrifically specific crux that ticks in at 5.11d. Excellent stone.
N.B. Some of the old maps have misnamed Lats, so check the source. In the old versions, Blood Red was sometimes called Lats, however, Lats starts left of the block.
Climb is very continuous with a good jug a little above the mid point to take some of the edge off of your lactic burn. There is also a deep mono that you can shake out on. This route deserves 3 stars and is a must do for the grade. Nothing on the route is harder than 11c but the endurance test is what makes it really fun!
*** don't think i've ever seen my lats explode through my skin before*** a must do!!! one of my favorites in the valley... just keep thinking "there's a rest soon i know it" but dont count on it...move fast!!.
Classic! I did this again last weekend and I still think it is one of the nicest 5.11 sport climbs in the front range. Great stone, great continuity, and a building forearm pump the whole way!
I don't know why this has lats in the name. Forearm pump I felt, but it's vertical, so lats, not so much. It's also a really fun 11c-ish route. I also didn't think it was too run out, either. the holds are big thru there, and you won't hit anything if you fall.
Re: above comment...how can it be an onsight on your second burn? Did you keep your eyes closed for the first?
This climb has been retrobolted. The manky old cold shuts have been replaced with new hangers, and I believe two new bolts got added. Not sure why there is one about three feet from the anchors though....
New hangers are a start. More bolts might be okay but are not what this route really needs. Since the route has new hangers now, it is even more important to get rid of the old bolts. When the nuts were unsecrewed to put on the new hangers, the old bolts were likley weakened!! I've broken off several 3/8" wedge-bolts while trying to unscrew them with a short wrench.
It's not so hard to do it right at Shelf, thanks to the soft rock. I did a same-hole replacement of the first bolt on Arnold-Arnold years ago. Here is what worked for me. First, I drilled along the top-side of the old bolt with a 3/16" drill bit. Then, tapping the old bolt toward the new void, got it loose enough to pull easy, no crow-barring. Finally, I redrilled the hole to 1/2" and put in a 1/2" x 3" Rawl.
If the hole seems too wide, it is possible to use a 1/2" by 5 & 3/4" Rawl bolt. See my picture of the special bit needed for these long bolts. Flared holes have not been a problem for me at Shelf, but it's good to be ready.
I've been waiting for years for someone else to do the fix. Not the FA guys, they've done a lot for climbers. I've got a borrowed drill and lots the proper hardware, thanks to Kirk Miller. If I get motivated, then I'll update this page.
Cactus Cliff
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