At just about the mid-point of Cactus Cliff is a red wall with two lines that nearly converge. The left is Lats and the right is Blood Red Wall. For Lats, fire up pockets and edges just left of a block that starts Blood Red. Chase a seam with pockets for an additional half dozen clips. Very continuous 5.11 climbing with no terrifically specific crux that ticks in at 5.11d. Excellent stone.
N.B. Some of the old maps have misnamed Lats, so check the source. In the old versions, Blood Red was sometimes called Lats, however, Lats starts left of the block.
Climb is very continuous with a good jug a little above the mid point to take some of the edge off of your lactic burn. There is also a deep mono that you can shake out on. This route deserves 3 stars and is a must do for the grade. Nothing on the route is harder than 11c but the endurance test is what makes it really fun!
*** don't think i've ever seen my lats explode through my skin before*** a must do!!! one of my favorites in the valley... just keep thinking "there's a rest soon i know it" but dont count on it...move fast!!.
Classic! I did this again last weekend and I still think it is one of the nicest 5.11 sport climbs in the front range. Great stone, great continuity, and a building forearm pump the whole way!
I don't know why this has lats in the name. Forearm pump I felt, but it's vertical, so lats, not so much. It's also a really fun 11c-ish route. I also didn't think it was too run out, either. the holds are big thru there, and you won't hit anything if you fall.
Re: above comment...how can it be an onsight on your second burn? Did you keep your eyes closed for the first?
This climb has been retrobolted. The manky old cold shuts have been replaced with new hangers, and I believe two new bolts got added. Not sure why there is one about three feet from the anchors though....
By Ken Trout From: Golden, CO Dec 29, 2007 rating: 5.11d
New hangers are a start. More bolts might be okay but are not what this route really needs. Since the route has new hangers now, it is even more important to get rid of the old bolts. When the nuts were unsecrewed to put on the new hangers, the old bolts were likley weakened!! I've broken off several 3/8" wedge-bolts while trying to unscrew them with a short wrench.
It's not so hard to do it right at Shelf, thanks to the soft rock. I did a same-hole replacement of the first bolt on Arnold-Arnold years ago. Here is what worked for me. First, I drilled along the top-side of the old bolt with a 3/16" drill bit. Then, tapping the old bolt toward the new void, got it loose enough to pull easy, no crow-barring. Finally, I redrilled the hole to 1/2" and put in a 1/2" x 3" Rawl.
If the hole seems too wide, it is possible to use a 1/2" by 5 & 3/4" Rawl bolt. See my picture of the special bit needed for these long bolts. Flared holes have not been a problem for me at Shelf, but it's good to be ready.
I've been waiting for years for someone else to do the fix. Not the FA guys, they've done a lot for climbers. I've got a borrowed drill and lots the proper hardware, thanks to Kirk Miller. If I get motivated, then I'll update this page.
In the picture topo it shows a additional route going left after the first few bolts and it is called "I Have a Vision" is this corect? I there a reason this marvelous route isn't submitted?
A heads up.... The 3rd bolt and the 5th bolt are pretty bad, particularly the 3rd. From below, you can see a cm or so of the bolt sleeve. If the 3rd pulls (seems like it will sometime soon), decking will happen. If someone has the expertise and equipment, I would be happy to help. Too good a climb to have such shoddy gear on. Looks like a same hole replacement will not work. The hole is eroded and flared on the bottom side.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Apr 16, 2009 rating: 5.11+
Agree about the 3rd clip. I remember being kinda sketched out moving above it because the climbing is sorta tricky there.
By Jeff Welch From: Lakewood, CO May 25, 2009 rating: 5.11c/d
Hopefully someone with the knowledge to do it properly (I don't) can go up there soon and replace the bad bolts. As someone else said, this climb is too aesthetic, too classic to have bad gear on it....
For me, the 3rd clip was ALWAYS the crux of the route. If the bolt was a foot lower you could clip it from good holds and the best stance. Definitely be careful, as I had a partner blow the clip and come really close to getting busted up on the ledgy terrain below.