Jeff getting into the crux & digging deep. He put...
Description
This route is on an excellent section of the cliff (named Back To The Future Wall) with 4 or 5 other routes that got stellar ratings in the guide book. A great place to spend a day. This is the easiest, with the others being hard 11s or easy 12s.
Back To The Future is easily identified by 2 huge pockets, side by side about 8 feet off the ground. This route has everything. It's not just a pocket-fest like many of the other routes at Shelf. The crux is about halfway up and ends in a huge bucket. The route is sustained and ends on the slabby sharp-as-hell rock that I found at the top of most of the routes at Shelf.
The fifth bolt (just before the crux) on BACK TO THE FUTURE (.11b) needs immediate replacement. The hanger popped off on me while on a roadtrip (no drill, no wrench) & doing a linkup of BTTF and the route to the right. I replaced the hanger, hand-tightened the nut, and marked it with a chalk 'X,' but the bolt is still too small for the hole and needs to be replaced---the hole itself looks fine.
Great route. However, a WARNING. The bolt protecting the crux is suspect. After 8 whippers (by my girlfriend) and two by me, when she went back to TR the crux, the hangar came off the bolt (we had a directional in it)! The reason is the bolt is too short and the nut will work it's way off. It looks like it's enough to just make sure the nut is finger tightened before you trust it, but MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS. I think it's the 3rd bolt, it's the one below the roof.
I came back to clear something up on this route description...I took about 20 falls on this thing on top rope. Most of the description I put on here was just quotes from the ropegun that put up the top rope for me. Sweet route though, but there is crux on there that I remember trying some layback move on it and fell off so many times that my belayer almost tied me off and left. I found a hidden hold after a LONG time and that made it possible, though still tough. My lard falling on this route so many times may be the reason for the bolt weakness listed in the comment above.
By Bill Ballace From: Pullman, Wa Feb 2, 2006 rating: 5.11b/c
Probably one of the best of its grade at Shelf. The bolt at the crux must have been replaced because it looked good to me.
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO Oct 29, 2007 rating: 5.11
Definitely a classic! And polished probably because it is a classic. If you make it past the technical crux (at the flake) and are weak like me, get ready for a big fall if you fub the clip - there will be no backing down from this point!
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