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Heavy Weather 

5.12a/b

   

FA: Bob D'Antonio
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12- [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 1,482 page views

Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001


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Bob D on the FA.


Description 

Beautiful line up the left side of Surreal Estate Wall (the third big clean wall reached from the standard North side approach). Belayer relaxes on inclined rock as the leader tackles the continual cruxes. A few shakeouts can be found and will certainly help. The first crux pulls through on pockets, a mid bouldery crux pulls edges before reaching a final overlap and the third major crux overlap. Sequential, pumpy and awesome!


Protection 

10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.



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By Anonymous Coward
Dec 26, 2001

One of my favorite routes at Shelf. Very sustained and sequential.I don't think there is a move of 5.12 on it but 90% of it is in the 11c/d range and the moves are not real obvious on the on-sight.Clipping stratagy is crucial.

By Joe Collins
Oct 27, 2003
rating: 5.12a

Awesome route. This climb reminds me of Hot Bitch on the Beach at Cactus Cliff... no real stopper crux but lots of 11+ climbing. Shorter climbers may find the middle crux to be pretty reachy.

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Dec 31, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b

Very continuous at the grade with few good rests. Doesn't really let up until you clip the chains. Quite a bit harder than its neighbor Unusual Weather. Quality climb.

By Jay P
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2008
rating: 5.12a/b

One of my favorite routes at Shelf, as well. One of the most consistent route for the grade at Shelf, in my opinion. At 5'8" with normal ape index, I found crux moves a little reachy, but doable if I knew where to go for. Definitely difficult to on-sight if you are pushing the grade. The last crux move is pretty awesome and desperate, if you are pumped, so rest well before.

By Tom Hanson
From: Castle Rock, CO
Oct 15, 2008

Reminiscent of Pay Homage at Castlewood, though a touch easier.

By Kai Huang
From: Thornton, CO
Apr 26, 2009

11 bolts to 2 biners anchor.

By Jared LaVacque
From: Anchorage
May 14, 2009

I onsighted both about 15 years ago and would say that Heavy Weather is slightly harder. Both have an obvious reachy crux, but Heavy weather is more sequential and does not have the rest that Pay Homage has. But then again, I also onsighted McFly .12d and Suedehead .12d at Shelf Road and think McFly was a little harder, due to it not being "my style".