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Once Upon a Time 

5.11a

   

FA: Bob D'Antonio
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Views: 509 page views

Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Evan takes some backup pro on the 5.hard


Description 

Located just around the corner to the left from Surreal Estate wall. Climbs just right of Sparkle in the Rain (12c) up a heavily pocketed left facing crack, then cut right to a shelf and then again up. The crux sequence leaves a solid flake on thin holds up a shallow corner. Nice moves continue up to the anchor.


Protection 

8 Bolts to 2 bolt anchor.



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Evan begins the first section of Once Upon a Time. Evan: "Life's too short not to go big...gotta go big, gotta go big."

Evan begins the first section of Once Upon a Time....


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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 25, 2001

Let's assume that if we use a star system in the context of this site, it reflects personal opinion and not consensus. Once Upon A Time starts several feet left of Stormy Weather, and is usually better rated than Stormy. Run up a seam to a right angling system of pockets and blocky edges. Hang further right to more straight forward face climbing and a few thinish pockets. Never much harder than upper 5.10, the climbing on Once Upon a Time is decent, but not, in my mind, as satisfying as the lines on the Surreal Estate Wall. It can be used to set up a TR on Sparkle In The Rain which has a beautiful system of edges pulling the crux bulge. Without Sparkle sitting just left, Once Upon A Time would probably not see a lot of traffic. However, the chance to get the draws on Sparkle is way too much to pass up.

By Lon Black
Dec 30, 2002

My partner and I both enjoyed this route. It flows well. The first half allows for stemming, mantels and underclings. The right part of the flake after you start moving right is broken. Be careful not to use this as a hold and pull it down on your belayer. Moving above the second pointed flake can be done by just cranking or with a heel hook. Good route.