Classic exposed arete. Start with thin moves past the first three bolts on the technical slab. Clip the next bolts just prior to the business from secure but slightly loose terrain. Catch a rest before launching up the steep arete. Crux is nicely exposed adding to the heady moves. The chains were not equalized well and kinked up the rope. A must do!
Forgot to mention that it is one of the first routes on Freeform Wall as one approaches from the Campground. Should be obvious when you have found it due to the picturesque steep arete above the starting slab.
I just did this a couple of weeks ago to avoid the mob scene at Freeform. Better then 3 stars!!! I almost thought the start was the technical crux, the actual arete was just mind games and balance. Not as pumpy as I was expecting looking at it from the ground but lots of really blind- balancy-feely reaches. A MUST DO!!
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Mar 17, 2003
I have to agree with Dave about the technical crux. It is probably in the first 20 feet of the climb. There are good rests after every hard section, so give this climb a try if it is near your leading limit. Don't pull on the loose stuff with chalk on it under the roof. None of these holds are needed for the climb.
Excellent route - great position and fun climbing up a beautiful overhanging arete.
By Bob Rotert From: Broomfield, Co Nov 10, 2008 rating: 5.11b
One of my favorite routes at Shelf. One that has a lot of character & very unique compared to most routes at Shelf. Love the position & balancy climbing up the arete. Only thing that would make it better is if you had to do the roof to get to the arete instead of being able to traverse above the roof onto the arete. I agree the first unprotected moves to the first bolt and past it are probably the technical crux.
By Noah G From: Alma, Co Sep 28, 2009 rating: 5.11c
Classic. Good photo ops on this one. Sweet position.
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