The last bolt is a bit wild to clip, but still a g...
Description
Third bolt line (both 12s in between) left of Partners in Crime. Bolts to chains along a hand crack. This is a crowded and popular route along a so-so bolted crack. You could trad lead it, but the crack appeared manky.
Protection
Bolted crack. Would probably take gear, but why bother? 13? bolts.
In 1995, I bolted this climb solo; Sence then, I have retro-bolted it twice. The first time was right after I led the first clean assent; That day I added 4 or 5 bolts to this climb. The second time I retroed this line was in ?1997?, I added a last bolt because not many people would climb straight to the anchors.FA: Carie and BobMy first Rabbit was named after this climb; My second Rabbit named another climb in Newlin Creak (Bam-bam).
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Oct 15, 2003 rating: 5.9+
The route now has seven bolts. Fun stemming and jamming down low leads to harder climbing near the top. I may have done a more difficult variation by moving out of the crack to the right, but I felt the moves near the top were harder than 5.9.
While this route is described as a "bolted crack climb", it is not in reality a crack climb. The thing is climbed on jugs and pockets with nary a jam. Several bolts with homemade hangers need to be replaced, and the anchor bolts are little eyebolts that also need to be replaced.
Yea, toward the top I kind of got lost wondering which way to go. I was really pumped after finishing this one, but barely broke a sweat on the nearby 11s. Strange route but hey, it still goes up.
By Brandon Schirm From: colorado springs, co Jul 15, 2008
Bob and Carrie added some bolts and removed the old anchors. This makes the total # of bolts around 13 ish.
After going back and climbing this route with the new extension, I definitely feel that it is a 5.10. Barney now goes all the way up to the top of the cliff with 3-4 more bolts past the old anchor and is pretty sustained. Not that it was a bad climb before, but now it's a Sand Gulch classic. Nice job, Bob and Carrie!
Climbed this yesterday with some friends. We never did find the anchors on this one and had to do some interesting down climbing. We used "the Book" which told us it had 7 bolts, appears to have more now (13?). Definitely harder than 5.9 at the top as we climbed the Opportunist and Enterprise prior to this (solid 5.9's) and cruised up them. Some beta on location of anchors would be nice. It seemed to have a 13 foot lead out at the top to the anchors. Is this right?
By Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Nov 23, 2008 rating: 5.10a
If you are confused about the anchors, it is because they no longer exist. One possibility is to go left to the anchor of Freeform and use it to get down. Another is to go right following a nice, new bolted line that finishes up at a twin cold shut anchor. The moves to get there are well protected and not harder than 10a.
By Justin Cantrall From: Smoulder, CO Jun 1, 2009 rating: 5.10a
Top half of this (route extension) did not feel like 5.9 and is comparable with other 10s in the area. First half is 5.9 though. Getting to the anchor was a bit confusing; there's one on the left and right? I chose right; a shoulder-length runner helps with rope drag on the last bolt prior to the diagonal traverse to anchor. Pretty enjoyable climbing, varied techniques throughout and nicely sustained with rewarding rests.
By Noah G From: Alma, Co Sep 28, 2009 rating: 5.10b
I agree the extension on this didn't make sense (went right) and didn't really seem worth the effort. I could see it freaking someone out new to leading and seeking this grade. Bottom half was fun.