Height-dependent start. Find the perfect round hole in the face, then look up for the next hold. This will test your ape index and probably fry your forearms. A bit sporty to the second bolt and the climbing is hard, so beware. Superb flakes, sidepulls, and pockets all the way to the top.
Per Matt Richardson: Start on sharp pockets (as all climbs on this wall seem to). Move to a good pocket to the left of the first bolt. From here is the first and most technical crux of the route (no groundfall potential with a good belayer). There are several options, but all involve moving off a shallow two finger (one if you have big hands) pocket to some bomber pockets to the right. I make this in one static slow move (I am 6'2") but smaller folks will want to find an intermediate. The rest of the route is thin with some good rests. A final, thin crux is found immediately below the bulge at the top of the route. You will be fighting the pump at the anchors.
This is a combination of two descriptions submitted for the same route.
Harrison Fox - That perfectly round hole at the start of the route is an awesome hold. First use it as a pocket and then an undercling. If you get your feet up high and undercling like crazy it makes the reach to the next hold a piece of cake.
Tried and tried this route in the spring of this year. At 5'8", it felt quite desperate, and I actually never sent the crux. If you can't span the reach from underclinging good pocket, you must use a couple of really bad holds, or throw a huge dyno. Must be at least 5.12 for those short folks. Any comments/suggestions?
I found the crux to be doable using small intermediate holds, and I'm 5'5". The sequence seems height-dependent: the 4 of us who tried this route each did the crux differently. To me it seemed like a choice between using the crimpy intermediates or doing a dyno.
The description given is a little misleading. The first bolt is a bit high, but is gained by easy moves to a jug pocket to clip from. Tall persons are able to bypass two tiny pockets with high feet and a long reach up and left to a good edge. Shorter persons must do two extra V3-ish moves on crappy feet to gain the good edge and higher jugs. The rest of the route is sustained and somewhat reachy. One clip in particular tests the 24 hr underarm deoderant you appied two days before. All in all, this makes a great redpoint for those who max out in the upper .11s.
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO Jun 21, 2007 rating: 5.11
I am not sure what is misleading about this description - the first bolt (and all other bolts) seem reasonably placed if the route is within your ability. I climbed this route with a girl who is 5' tall and she seemed to have no problem with it, so I am not sure what Andrew means by "reachy". I do believe that the bottom-most crux is probably more difficult the shorter you are.
F.A. K. McLaughlin, Glenn Schuler. Good quality limestone all the way. A great route at this grade (a bit tougher if you are not so tall). We were the "Partners In Crime" on this one.
Went back to this one on 2/9/08. It's either small fingers or being tall to have an advantage on the low crux at the first bolt. Definitely feels 11+/12- to me! But a great climb no matter what.
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