Height-dependent start. Find the perfect round hole in the face, then look up for the next hold. This will test your ape index and probably fry your forearms. A bit sporty to the second bolt and the climbing is hard, so beware. Superb flakes, sidepulls, and pockets all the way to the top.
Harrison Fox - That perfectly round hole at the start of the route is an awesome hold. First use it as a pocket and then an undercling. If you get your feet up high and undercling like crazy it makes the reach to the next hold a piece of cake.
Tried and tried this route in the spring of this year. At 5'8", it felt quite desperate, and I actually never sent the crux. If you can't span the reach from underclinging good pocket, you must use a couple of really bad holds, or throw a huge dyno. Must be at least 5.12 for those short folks. Any comments/suggestions?
I found the crux to be doable using small intermediate holds, and I'm 5'5". The sequence seems height-dependent: the 4 of us who tried this route each did the crux differently. To me it seemed like a choice between using the crimpy intermediates or doing a dyno.
F.A. K. McLaughlin, Glenn Schuler. Good quality limestone all the way. A great route at this grade (a bit tougher if you are not so tall). We were the "Partners In Crime" on this one.
Went back to this one on 2/9/08. It's either small fingers or being tall to have an advantage on the low crux at the first bolt. Definitely feels 11+/12- to me! But a great climb no matter what.
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