Halfling Beta: First, undercling, with the right h...
Description
Starts just left of a blocky offwidth corner. Bouldery start to a thin face move off a sidepull, then easier climbing leads to a bulge that is surmounted via steep, but positive, liebacking.
Protection
Bolts to chains.
Photos of Bourgeois Belay Slave aka Bourgeois Belay Dogs Slideshow
For clarity: This route and Karma Mechanic are located in a shaded level alcove just off the trail on your right. Karma Mechanic starts up just behind a tree and is about 8 left of this route.
... not shaded by late morning. Good winter climbing. Both this and Karma Mechanic are quality 5.10 routes
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Oct 15, 2003 rating: 5.10c
The name of the route is "Bourgeois Belay Dogs". The crux at the second bolt can be done with an undercling and a reach to a shallow finger pocket up right of the bolt or by sliding left, moving up and then back right.
The bulging, layback crux at the last bolt is pumpy and continuous, with little for the feet. Harder than Suburbia or Armistice, so I'm calling it a 10c.
Olson... everytime I read a comment of yours on this site you're inflating a grade. Could you stop? Good beta on the climbs though. Stick to your guns and keep that up. Not meaning to be a jerk, per guidelines, just looking to curb the virulent inflation in the Front Range decimal system. Otherwise, we're all out of luck when we go to places with real, solid to stout grades. Shelf already has the softest grades in the West, (Red Rocks a close second). Let's not make it any worse.
I think that Shelf is fair in its ratings. Some are soft and some are stout for the rating. Do the routes around Hot Beach (on Cactus Cliff) to see what I mean or go do Rain in the Bank or The Example (some think it's soft). For me, Shelf is every bit as hard or harder than Rifle; for the rating. Even Rifle has a few routes that are soft.
WHO CARES! Just climb and enjoy it, Otherwise you are there for the wrong reasons!
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