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Suburbia 

5.10b/c

   

FA: Bob and Carrie Robertson
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 750 page views

Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001


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Keith Jarvis leading the route.


Description 

A excellent climb, rightfully popular. Climbs the left wall of an inside corner about 1/4 of the way down Contest Wall (left side of Sand Gulch) - Metropolis and Miller Time are on the right wall and right arete. Climb through fun moves past the first few bolts and puzzle out the continous upper moves around the upper bulge before you pump out.


Protection 

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



Add Photo Photos of Suburbia
Russell Oakley at the second bolt.  Leanne Hanson Photographer

Russell Oakley at the second bolt. Leanne Hanson ...

Nearing what was for us the crux at the very top. Intimidatingly steep but with frequent good rest stances.

Nearing what was for us the crux at the very top. ...

Just after bolt 6. I was glad I took advantage of the rests and had some strength for the cruxy finish.

Just after bolt 6. I was glad I took advantage of ...


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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 25, 2002

Note to the complete moron who rebolted this route:

You drilled your new holes WAY too close the the existing holes (ie about 1/2 inch above). The new holes are starting to chip out at the bottom side, and are beginning to form fractures to the old holes. Please get a clue, and in the meantime hand over your drill to somebody who actually knows what they are doing. Your little action has only added bolt hole desecration to the rock, and could become a safety issue if people are whipping on the bolts.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 25, 2002

Why did somebody rebolt this? I was on it just a few months ago and it seemed fine. I hope that the first bolt wasn't raised too. It is a hard enough reach already. I will be anxious to see this first hand. Whoever did this.....what was your reasoning? J/K.

By CLR
Oct 26, 2002

Friday, Oct. 13,1995, Carrie soloed the first assent of Time Square (No Bolts), lowered down Suburbia, and retro bolted the last two bolt; she chopped the old 3" by 3/8" bolts with 4 1/2" by 1/2" bolts. The last bolt was moved to a better spot that has a small face crack line -wich circled the new bolt with a radius of about four inches. She looked at it yesterday and nothing has changed.Sense then, Robert has rebolted the lower bolts. He did not want to destroy this climb (like Heavey Weather, Unusual Weather, Jim Arete, and many other previous thrilling ventures have been), so he did replace the 3/8" by 3" bolts (he drilled by hand in 1988) with 4" by1/2" bolts to close; Thanks for the comments. There is only one bolt that does have a thin crack STARTING TO FORM from the mistake; Carrie and Robert WILL KEEP A EYE ON EVERY BOLT.Do me a favor, IF YOU HAVE NEVER BEEN ON A TRADITIONAL MISSION, PLEASE, DON'T PLASTER PLASTIC THOUGHTS OUTSIDE. I SPEND AT LEAST TWO HOURS REMOVING SHELLS AND BAD BLOCKS -WHILE PUTTING IN A NEW LINE WITH MY DAD; We have decided to stop describing each climb on line, because, two many scary insults are DICKTATING to many unseen dreams.

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Dec 30, 2002

.....and life goes on. Whatever. I climbed Suburbia this past weekend and liked the route. Good ledges to rest, shake out, and think for a minute. The moves are there with positive holds all the way to the top. This definitely kept the mind working and the feet edging. Near 'Suburbia' on the arete is 'Miller Time', which is another fun thing to jump on. Both of these are highly recommended.

By Carrie
Oct 3, 2003

FA: Bob & Carrie Robertson

By Michael Amato
Oct 18, 2004

Climbed this great route again on 10/16/04... awesome edges and ledges, and a thrilling finish!

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 19, 2004

Yeah, well you are a tool shed. And, on top of that, you're not even man enough to sign your name.

By Brandon Bogardus
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Mar 29, 2006

Best 5.10 in the area. Or at least I think so.

By Matt Price
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.10b

This is a great route, pretty consistent at the grade, with fun moves and lots of chances for a rest. Save some strength for the top! Making the 1st & 2nd clips could be substantially harder and more dangerous for a shorter person.