At the jug right before the crux moves to the left...
Description
Ok, strange name, good climb. Left-most route on Bulge Wall. Starts two climbs left and below belay ledge with tree. Felt like 10a so I compromiced with Van Horn's rating of 10c/d at 10b. Fun climbing on positive holds, some of the moves are reachy.
Protection
7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
Add PhotoPhotos of Turbo Charged, Inter-Cooled Meat Machine
Me. Photo by Jason.
Climbing the moves above what we consider the crux...
C. Love at the top
Add CommentComments on Turbo Charged, Inter-Cooled Meat Machine
I know I'm in the minority, but for some reason I had trouble with this climb and found it harder than other 10b's or The Big Chill. It only has one crux section of a couple of moves, but I always feel scrunched up, then have to match on a long reach which feels like I'm going to peel off of. I guess it just exposes my weeknesses, although I'll play the 'height card' and say it's easier for short people!
Nice route. At the top after clipping the last bolt are people going straight up to the anchors? It felt a little thin to me so I came down a move, went over to the right, up, and then back left to the anchor. That was pretty reasonable but would produce an exciting ride in the event of a fall.