A really fun jug haul, just climb carefully through on easy ground to the very high first bolt. Located on Contest Wall two climbs past Miller Time. Climbs up the moderately steep south face and arete. This route has so many huge holds it felt easy for the grade, especially if one used holds on the arete near the top. Savor those handles!
Protection
5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Possibly protect the 1st bolt runout with small gear?
Yeah, watch out for the loose rocks at the top--Shane almost dropped it right on my head! Just joking, Bud! One of my all time favorite routes in Shelf!!!
I thought this climb was a significant challenge for the grade given. As stated, it's slightly overhung and pumpy, but what makes it really difficult is that all the good feet and hands are greasy from so many ascents.mike.
I would have to err on the side that it's soft for the grade. Years back, it was my first 5.10. Our guide said .10d at the time, which was definitely soft. Since it is slightly overhung, I think the pump factor exaggerates how difficult it feels for some. But let's keep in mind that it is indeed loaded with jugs, and really not very long if you take away the slab approach to the real climbing.
This route may consist of more jugs than other 10c's at Shelf, but it's also deceivingly steep. I climbed it fast and had a blast; hanging around to contemplate your every move could be your demise :-)
A new bolt appears to have been placed down low to protect the route below the ledge. Start on the arete itself (or a bit right) instead of climbing the slab directly beneath the route proper.
Contest Wall
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