Another nice climb about 1/2 way along Contest Wall, just left of Cactus Drop, Regroovable and Lime and Punishment. Start up the initial bulge with a powerful sequence past the first bolt to thin pocket and edge climbing up the blunt arete. A slightly hidden heuco near the third bolt provides a rest, otherwise the climbing is continous to the anchors.
Actually there's a pretty good rest between the fourth and fifth bold (or is it 3rd & 4th?) before the crux sequence. Seems like there are multiple versions of the start. I started just below the first bolt (aka on the left), grabbed the mail slot below the bolt, then moved right. Double clutch off the left hand gaston to a good small hold above, then its pretty reasonable. Crux moves are thin -- think feet, and there's still a sting in the tail at the end. Enjoyable!
Of the dozen or so routes I've done in Sand Gulch, this is my favorite. I was told that there haven't been any broken holds, but there used to be a large block you could stand on to reach the mailslot at the start.Pretty spooky finish.
By Ken Cangi From: Boulder, CO Sep 8, 2007 rating: 5.12a/b
Contest Wall
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