Another nice climb about 1/2 way along Contest Wall, just left of Cactus Drop, Regroovable and Lime and Punishment. Start up the initial bulge with a powerful sequence past the first bolt to thin pocket and edge climbing up the blunt arete. A slightly hidden heuco near the third bolt provides a rest, otherwise the climbing is continous to the anchors.
Actually there's a pretty good rest between the fourth and fifth bold (or is it 3rd & 4th?) before the crux sequence. Seems like there are multiple versions of the start. I started just below the first bolt (aka on the left), grabbed the mail slot below the bolt, then moved right. Double clutch off the left hand gaston to a good small hold above, then its pretty reasonable. Crux moves are thin -- think feet, and there's still a sting in the tail at the end. Enjoyable!
Of the dozen or so routes I've done in Sand Gulch, this is my favorite. I was told that there haven't been any broken holds, but there used to be a large block you could stand on to reach the mailslot at the start.Pretty spooky finish.
By Zed From: Gotham City Sep 8, 2007 rating: 5.12a/b
This is the finest route I have done at Shelf so far (50 or so routes). This climb has it all. Begin with an engaging boulder problem right off the ground. Big moves on positive pockets lead to the arete. Delicate and technical moves finish it off. The finish will blow your mind- and maybe your onsight.
so, just wondering if it would still count as send if pre-hung draws, including anchors, and clip anchors from the last good crimp and reach way up. in this case, one doesn't really move out left and back to anchors. i am asking this because if i pre-hang draws, i can clip the anchors, but without them, it would be 3 extra hard/scary moves and i wouldn't be able to clip the anchors from the last crimp.
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Left Hand Canyon, CO Apr 27, 2009
Kai, What you did was a pinkpoint instead of a redpoint, but still a send. Congrats!
Thanks. Right, that would be a pink point. However, I am just curious whether to call it a send/pink point or not if I can't make that traverse move to be able to clip draws at anchors. My buddy sent it that way, and I have worked out the beta and it will go next time.
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