|The Dark Side
The Dark Side
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|Lat, Long: ||38.6281, -105.2239 Map Incorrect?
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|Administrators: ||Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman|
|Submitted By: ||Richard M. Wright on Sep 28, 2001|
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BETA PHOTO: Overview showing Porkus Procurement
The name says it all. Dark rock, in the shade, and a good choice for pulling limestone pockets on a hot day. This excellent crag offers a somewhat unique experience from other crags in the main Shelf area. This is one of the "old school" crags at Shelf, with bolting & grading more in line with the original lines at The Bank, Sand Gulch & The Gallery. If you're used to Cactus Cliff style bolting, be prepared for spaced-out bolts, and be prepared to supplement some routes with gear.
As for the climbing, many of the walls are relatively slabby, with fluted black rock that can be uncommonly sharp in places. There are numerous longer lines, but generally the routes here are shorter than those at Cactus or The Gym. Overall the route quality is excellent, despite the mysterious sparsity of stars in the latest guidebook from Sharp End.
Finally, despite the name, in the height of summer, when shade is at a premium, this crag bakes in the sun 'till mid-day. Thankfully the crags sickle-shape provides shade for the East end of the crag a bit earlier (~10am). There are a number of dihedrals that provide earlier shade for routes such as Punjabi, and the routes around Suspender Man.
There are two ways to approach the Dark Side, depending on the routes you're headed for. Park at the newly expanded parking lot just past The Bank campground for both approaches.
For routes on the West end of the cliff, hike down from the parking area toward the Bank. Shortly after the road drops down a bit you can pick up a trail to the right. This trail will take you to the 2150 Wall, Cactus, etc, or to The Dark Side by staying hard right ~15 feet after leaving the road. Head East just below the cliff band, where you will encounter various scrambling sections not suitable for young kids.
For routes on the East end of the cliff, hike ~100 yds back down the road, towards Canon City, to a turnoff on the left (N) side of the road that leads to the Group Camp site. Walk towards the Group site, which is surrounded by a ridiculous fence. Once you reach the fence pick up a faint trail that heads East along the fence line. Follow this for ~30 yds to the cliff band atop the bank. Locate a fixed rope or two, and down climb the 3rd class chimney to the base of the cliff. There are ~5 routes located East of this downclimb, but the rest of the routes are to the West. The first route encountered to the West of the downclimb is "Slap Me".
60 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',30],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Dark Side
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Dark Side:
Lumina 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch
27 Tons 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
The Plum 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For The Dark Side
Enchanted Porkfist 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c CO
: Shelf Road
: The Dark Side
Hike to the QOB Pinnacle. Just left of the pinnacle are two quite decent lines up black stone. The left of these is Enchanted Porkfist. Chase the bolts on good pockets interspersed with edgy horrizontal seams. Enchanted is a good warm up for the harder lines at The Dark Side. It seems as though we do this line each time we climb here. Moderate climbing, good stone, nice moves....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
News and Events For The Dark Side
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: The Dark Side from Cactus Cliff.
Las montaņas de la Sangre de Christo, above the Da...
Waiting out the storm at the Dark Side.
|Comments on The Dark Side
|By Jesse Ryan|
Oct 13, 2005
Interesting route, worth doing. Crux on arete and at chains. Probably 11c or 11b/c.
|By b hof|
From: P West, CO
Jun 12, 2012
Directly below site 7 there is a small pinyon with webbing to make a clean rappel to Corner Pockets.