"The Leaning Wall" has a good mix of moderate and difficult routes. The left side of the wall has 5 moderate routes 5.7-5.9. Th right side has 5 routes from 5.10c-5.12a. Most routes require some gear placements as well as bolts for protection. Rock quality is typical gritty BV granite, but the routes are cleaning up over time.... Great afternoon sun makes year round climbing possible. (This crag is labeled "Milt's Wall" in the Arkansas Valley climbing guidebook, but "Milt's Wall" actually sits just north and above the 1st set of tunnels.) Routes are described from left to right....
(1) The Orange Corner - 5.7 gear to chains. (2) A Brief Squall - 5.7 gear and bolts to chains. (3) Golden Plate - 5.9(5.10a 1 bolt start optional) gear and bolts to chains-left of the "Slab Tree". (4) Classic Corner - 5.7 climb gear to the right of the "Slab Tree" up the steep corner. (5) Slabby Steps - 5.8 gear to chains. Just left of the "Leaning Seam".... (6) The Leaning Seam - 5.10d thin gear to 1 bolt and then up to chains. (7) The Leaning Face (AKA-Backscratcher) - 5.12a 6 bolts and gear to chains. (8) The Leaning Corner - 5.11b gear and 1 bolt crux to chains. (9) The Leaning Flake - 5.10c gear and 3 bolts to chains. (10) The Leaning Crack - 5.10d/11a gear to chains.
Getting There
The Leaning Wall is found by driving north on the "River Road" (Co. Rd. 371) from the town of BV. After passing through the first set of tunnels, drive 1/4 mile, just past the "Chief's Head" and park on the right before entering the 3rd tunnel. A large pine tree grows from the foot of the steep, leaning wall. 5 minutes up the moderate slope to the base.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Leaning Wall:
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
RSS Feed
Slideshow
