What a crux! Straight up through the two shallow cracks didn't feel like mid 5.11 at all, I went left but this didn't feel like the true line. Any beta?
By Lee Jenkins From: Buena Vista, Colorado Jul 1, 2008
Going left is offroute onto a no name .10+. The route ascends the twin cracks at the 1st bolt bulge then stays in the bolt line to the top. Agree it is a bit cruxy but it's all there....
I didn't really join the route next to it, I didn't move that far over. I traversed about 4 feet left at the first bolt, stood up and reached for the flat ledge directly between the first 2 bolts, and then worked my way over to the right hand lockoff for the 2nd clip.
Lee, how do you move up the 2 cracks? I couldn't slot them (too flared) or lieback them (too slopey). Is there something I'm missing? It just seemed really hard for the grade.
By Lee Jenkins From: Buena Vista, Colorado Aug 7, 2008
If my memory works (i climbed it 3 years ago..) I think a placed a cam in the horizontal below the twin cracks, laybacked the small left arete and reached up to another horizontal then smeared up from there. It is a reachy move above the bolt!