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Altzheimer's Onsight 
Shitska and Cheese 
Unknown 

Shitska and Cheese 

5.11c

   

FA: Tom Perkins
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 55 feet
Views: 137 page views

Submitted By: Stephen Nance on Aug 29, 2006


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Description 

3 bolts and cams front left side of rock, 2 routes to the right of the black streak route (12a).



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By Stephen Nance
From: Wichita, Kansas
Aug 29, 2006

3 bolts and cams front left side of rock, 2 routes to the right of the black streak route (12a).

By Doug Lintz
From: Lincoln, NE
Jul 1, 2008

What a crux! Straight up through the two shallow cracks didn't feel like mid 5.11 at all, I went left but this didn't feel like the true line. Any beta?

By Lee Jenkins
From: Buena Vista, Colorado
Jul 1, 2008

Going left is offroute onto a no name .10+. The route ascends the twin cracks at the 1st bolt bulge then stays in the bolt line to the top. Agree it is a bit cruxy but it's all there....

By Doug Lintz
From: Lincoln, NE
Jul 2, 2008

I didn't really join the route next to it, I didn't move that far over. I traversed about 4 feet left at the first bolt, stood up and reached for the flat ledge directly between the first 2 bolts, and then worked my way over to the right hand lockoff for the 2nd clip.

Lee, how do you move up the 2 cracks? I couldn't slot them (too flared) or lieback them (too slopey). Is there something I'm missing? It just seemed really hard for the grade.

By Lee Jenkins
From: Buena Vista, Colorado
Aug 7, 2008

If my memory works (i climbed it 3 years ago..) I think a placed a cam in the horizontal below the twin cracks, laybacked the small left arete and reached up to another horizontal then smeared up from there. It is a reachy move above the bolt!