This is a very nice wandering line up the South side. The first pin and crack is about 18' up, so a spotter is advised. Traverse right on the ledge then straight up to the anchors. The protection on the route is fairly spaced out, but it is certaily adequate if you place good pro. This is the easiest route to the top, and could be used to place topropes on the other lines.
Again, there may be new bolts that replaced the old fixed gear, but if not be sure to back up the old pins with good gear. Hopefully they also replaced the old anchor at the top.
Overall a fun short line. Several nice face climbing cruxes with rests. Feels longer and more exposed than it looks from the ground.
casey bernal
Protection
A set of nuts and small cams. Hybrid aliens are also useful in the pin scars. There is a rumor that some new bolts were put in in place of the old fixed gear.
There are now two new ASCA bolts to add to the three fixed pins. The route could now be considered well protected. You will still want to bring a few small cams and a couple nuts. There are also a fresh pair of anchor bolts, too.
casey
By D's Nutz From: Boulder, CO Jun 10, 2008 rating: 5.9
There is a mixture of about 4 bolts/pitons on the route. I didn't see any great locations to back up some of the older pitons on the route except for the first small crack visible from the ground.
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