The Buena Vista (locally pronounced, 'Bew-na Vista') area contains a number of different crags ranging from 40 to 500 feet. With the exception of Holy Water, most of the climbs are in the low, semi-arid mountains on the East side of the Arkansas River Valley. The views of the 14,000' Sawatch Range are phenomenal on just about every route in the valley. The valley has typical Colorado mountain weather in the summer. You will experience the typical afternoon thunderstorms that roll off the high peaks and across the valley. You can often look up and down the valley and spot isolated thunderstorms and climb around them. If a storm is moving across the northern valley, head for Rainbow Rock, if you get a southern or central valley storm, head up north to the Bob's Rock area. Don't make this storm dodging a standard practice, but it is often be pouring at Bob's Rock and dry at Rainbow Rock.
There is fairly solid rock throughout the valley, especially at the developed crags. Holy Water sports some fine alpine granite up Cottonwood Pass road west of town. The area contains 8-10 developed cliffs, including Bob's Rock, The tunnels area, Pumpstation, Split Rock, Elephant Rock, Davis Face, Holy Water, Turtle Rock, and Rainbow Rock. With the exception of Davis Face, all of these crags top out at about 50-100 feet. Davis Face, a large, west-facing cliff about 10 miles from town, stands at about 400-500 feet. Also, some great bouldering is found on the west side of Rainbow Rock. Routes range from 5.5 to 5.12. The majority of the routes in the valley are bolted face routes, while some good traditional routes do exist. Although many of the routes in the valley are bolted, one would be wise to carry some traditional gear to supplement. A few topropes are available at Bob's Rock and Rainbow Rock.
Camping abounds to the northeast of town near Turtle Rock and Split Rock and is free. There is also camping in the National Forest west of town in the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness. The guidebook is available at The Trailhead outdoor shop on the north end of town, and contains local beta for many of the climbs in the valley. You can get just about anything you need in Buena Vista, and if not there's a Walmart in Salida, about 20 miles south of Buena Vista. Kay's and Bongo Billy's coffee are great places to grab a bite and relax after a day on the rocks. Another treat is the Mt. Princeton Hot Springs off of Mt. Princeton Rd. a few miles south of town. Showers can be had near the public river put-in immediately east of downtown BV. In the summer, the valley becomes a whitewater mecca. There are many fine outfitters in town if you want to spend some time in the river.
Getting There
Buena Vista is located in the Arkansas River Valley about 3 hours from Denver and about 2 hours from Colorado Springs.
From Denver: Take US Hwy. 285 for 3 hours west from C-470 past Fairplay to Antero Junction where US Hwy. 285 and US Hwy 24 will join. Continue on what is now US Hwy 285/24 until your reach Johnson Village. Proceed to the T-Stop and turn right onto US Hwy 24. Take US 24 about 2 miles into BV.
From Colorado Springs: Take US Hwy 24 (Cimmarron) west out of downtown. Stay on US 24 until you reach Antero Junction, where US Hwy 285 and US Hwy 24 join. Turn left on what is now US 285/24 and take it over Trout Creek Pass to Johnson Village. Just after Johnson Village turn right and follow 2 miles to Buena Vista.
Eds. The Trailhead, 707 Hwy 24 N, Buena Vista, 719.395.8001. www.thetrailheadco.com.
Miscellaneous
If you are coming from the Leadville side & need coffee, bakery goods, or wireless internet, the Provin' Grounds Coffee Shop (508 Main St.) may have what you need.
Hey, to whoever's "developing" these 30 ft sport routes. Thanks asshole!!! Thanks for being so egotistical and short sighted. I just "bouldered" 5 of your so called "sport routes" last week. You're well on your way to grid bolting the amazing highball potential of the entire Arkansas River Valley.
Well, I didn't see the grid of bolts, but there are a fair amount of bolts where I climbed. However, the routes would be hard if not impossible to protect otherwise. I climbed Bob's Rock and had a good time. There were other climbers there who were all very helpful with routes. Jethro and the gang were across the valley pushing boulders off of a cliff to watch them explode when they hit the ground. Also, there were a fair number of people doing target practice. Keep your head low! But not a bad little area if your in the neighborhood. Jamison.
Give The Trailhead another chance. My wife and I bought the store mid-May of '04 and we've worked herd to beef up our climbing category. We added stock and books; re-introduced shoes; opened up communications with local climbers; hired climbers; got out and reconned and climbed local routes ourselves (we moved in from the Springs when we bought the shop).
It takes a long time to turn a ship around. If you haven't been to The Trailhead lately, you haven't been. Give us another shot.
So many options exist that the above comments don't reflect on what really goes on here. Everything from semi-alpine Yo like granite buttresses to riverside crags that get "GRID" bolted, OMFG. You be the judge and come and have a good time. Even a little ice in the "off season" :).
By Lee Jenkins From: Buena Vista, Colorado May 25, 2007
If you want to stay informed of climbing activities in BV please feel free to join the following Yahoo group.
Buena Vista
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