Photo of Brett Tischler taken by Tom Lukas half ha...
Description
This route starts from the center of Oceanic Wall, and climbs 30 feet of 10a terrain before bypassing a two-bolt anchor and ascending left and up on more difficult rock for another 45 feet. The steep section just after the first anchor is especially thoughtful and fun.
Protection
3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, then 4 more to another 2 bolts.
Young Doug - This is a nice route, and I found the last thirty feet to be really exciting with small feet and thin holds to clip draws from! Do this one! you won't be dissappointed. Ps..Hey Ox! Whaassuupp!
FA Update: Leviathon was first climbed via TR by R. Rossiter and Gail Effron, 1996. I placed the bolts on this route during the summer of 1997. Steve Sangdahl led it successfully the next day.
The 10a start is one of the nicer bits of moderate sport climbing I have done around Boulder. Kudos to whoever was nice enough to put the extra anchors at the end of this section.
I really enjoyed the route. The seam crux was excellent ... but still, I think it was more like 5.11b, Let's not get carried away with the ratings here. The only place this might get a 12a rating is sport park.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Aug 28, 2006 rating: 5.11d
I thought this pitch was pretty sustained. The moves off the belay were a little committing. Pulling the final bulge was strenuous. I really enjoyed this climb.
I went left at the top (not the fork at the low anchors, the upper fork) and found it both tricky and strenuous...clipping the last bolt was very balance-y from the stance I found. I thought it substantially harder than 11b done that way. I didn't try the right-upper fork, but the guide said it was a tad easier...
Though short lived, the crux sequence felt every bit as hard as Sargasso Sea or Creatures from the Black Lagoon with a thin, puzzling crux that is friction and balance dependent.
Leviathan (for those searching on the correct spelling) does have a puzzling cruz and deserves the 11d, in my opinion. The crux moves are nonintuitive and delicate. At the 9th bolt, I stemmed right, then moved up the left foot, and cranked in the seam onto the left foot with a move that started as a pull with the left hand and ended as a downward push in the seam with the right index finger. This was not yet the end, as I was still short of the upper ledge. Another slab move on a small pinch and small footholds helped me gain this.