Upper Dream Canyon is one of the more secluded yet nearby climbing areas around. Climbing in Upper Dream Canyon is as much about the routes themselves as it is the gentle canyon that surrounds you. The area has a reputation for being a homosexual and nudist hotspot, however, this is exaggerated. Nevertheless, find another climbing area if this offends you. Upper Dream Canyon offers a nice variety of traditional and sport climbs, often enabling a climbing party to climb out of the canyon--a must during a late summer sunset. Because this area is pristine, be sure to pick up your trash, stay on trails, and respect the residents that live above the canyon.
This area include ~13 crags, although Lost Angel & Dream Dome have the bulk of the climbs here. Much of the climbing here is bolt protected; however, there are some gear routes here.
Getting There
Although Upper Dream Canyon can be reached by hiking up from the base of Boulder Falls, most opt for turning right off Boulder Canyon at ~4 miles on Sugarloaf Road. After 3 miles, take a left on Lost Angel Road, continue straight at 1 mile, head right shortly after and you will reach a dirt parking lot within another half mile. Several trails lead to the base of Upper Dream Canyon. To reach the Oceanic Wall and Dream Dome, walk down the road a short way past the parking lot and veer left on a trail that takes you to the north end of the canyon. The more southern portions of the canyon can be reached via a series of trails that skirt the top of the canyon heading west, then shoot down between rock outcroppings.
Starts just right of Autumn. The first bolt looks high - but the route actually starts by traversing in from the right, a mellow proposition for anyone capable of climbing the remainder of the route. The first pitch is the best - excellent and sustained, with several small roofs. At about 100 feet, a somewhat uncomfortable belay provides a rest. The second pitch climbs up and left, then back to the right, with only one difficult move. Third pi...[more]
I would affirm Dream Canyon's reputation as a nudist/homosexual spot, having three such experiences in my first five visits. Not unpleasant people, though not afraid. Once, mountain biking all the way east along Ridge Road in Nederland and passing the "summer road" and passing out of the residential area, I followed my nose along dirt roads until I was getting near Boulder Falls. Finding an interesting looking trail north, I jumped on it it and headed steeply down the hill. The trail petered out to deer track, and I was coming hard down the fall line with my bike on my shoulder. As I neared the creek, I began to hear chanting. At the very bottom of the canyon on the south side was a small meadow, on which were a few tents. A small bridge crossed the creek here to the north, where there is a large flat space at the bottom west end of Dream Canyon. A large blue tarp was suspended as an open walled tent, and underneath it were 2 dozen 30-40 something outdoorsy kinda Boulder types, wearing North Face and fleece jackets. Three women appeared to be inspired by spirits and were fainting backwards in ecstasy into cohorts arms. Again, chanting. 8-10 more dome tents, coupla SUVs, and as I cross the bridge, a couple of fellas quickly cruise over (spiritual, long hair, not menancing, but very concerned about my presence) and escort me towards the road, asking wassup? Motioned towards the other side of the canyon and the epic I would have had had I not found the bridge, and they just asked that I not return. One of the cars in the normal Dream Canyon parking lot had a bumpersticker; "Life's a joy, then you ascend...". Dream Canyon is its own vortex...
Anyone know the name of the rock, and the single route, about 100 yardsdownstream from The Terrace? There is a single bolted line (6 bolts) onan overhanging face, leading to a two bolt rap anchor. The rock isslightly upstream from the plank across the river at the Lost Angel.Grade for the route?
Dream question: Above the anchors on Freedom [Lost Angel Wall] are two bolted routes which don't seem to be in Rossiter's guide or in this database . . . Anyone know what they are? Thanks.
What is the route across the creek from [Lost Angel]? slightly overhanging, good holds, the only route on the rock. It's between the [Plank Bridge] and [The Terrace] and a really great line. Name? Grade?
The rock across the creek from Lost Angel, downstream from the Terrace is called "Irish Holiday" and the bolted route is called "Spiders and Snakes" (5.12b). This route was cleaned, bolted and had its first free ascent by Bob Horan in the Autumn of 1998, assisted and belayed by myself and Mark Winstead. There is a short crack to the right of this route which finishes with the last three bolts on the rock, done free by me, then Mark, and named "Jack Hunter" (5.8). This is mentioned for posterity, not as a recommendation.
When you read the initial Dream Canyon description substitute "gay men" for "homosexual" and "exhibitionist" for "nudist." Having lived in the closest house to the canyon and Boulder Falls for over three years, I saw a lot of things, but I never saw a lesbian. Don't mistake my comments for scrutiny. People should be free to do what makes them happy in nature (be it hike, or climb, or have sex with strangers) as long as nature is preserved.
Also on the initial description: There are many ways to hike into LOWER Dream Canyon from the Boulder Falls area, but climbing above the falls (as many a flatlander has done) can earn you a trespassing ticket from rangers (trust me). From the parking area, cross the road down canyon from the "hole in the rock" and find the steep and narrow telephone service trail, try to avoid touron attention and be mindful of loose rock above the road. Only use this trail to access lower Dream Canyon during high water, otherwise hike down from the upper canyon. Be careful on all scree slopes and stay out of the mines, several have been filled in by the forest service during the last fifteen years but not all. They are unstable and perilous. Be discrete and respectful above the rim (i.e. top of Winter Warmth), it is private property.
Another way to get to Dream is by soloing the 4/5th class rock to the east of the falls. Just cross the creek and hike uphill a tad. I'm not sure if this is trespassing as well, but I can't imagine it is... Signs were on the West side of the creek, so... Lots of fun to do in wintry conditions/snow! Also, anyone know the name/grade of the 2 bolt route JUST right of the Falls? It runs up a blank wall with a roof, if I recall. Looks a little...um...run-out?
The parking lot off Lost Angel Road has been full on our recent visits. As we were leaving this afternoon (07/02/06) cars were idling waiting for spots; the pullouts off the road were also taken. Perhaps not surprising as this is a great area to climb.
"Also on the initial description: There are many ways to hike into LOWER Dream Canyon from the Boulder Falls area, but climbing above the falls (as many a flatlander has done) can earn you a trespassing ticket from rangers (trust me)."
I know many climbers have been ignoring the sign for years. Has anybody else gotten a ticket for hiking up from Boulder Falls?
Thanks to whoever took the time this week to cut down a few of the branches on the trail leading down to the Oceanic Wall and clean it up. That section was a real pain to get around.
Upper Dream Canyon
Printer Friendly View
RSS Feed
