A fun pitch, but the lack of decent pro makes it a better toprope than a lead.
Start between Sea of Dreams and Soul On Ice at a V-shaped dihedral with an old bolt. Climb the corner with some nice stemming moves and angle right at the top to the anchor shared with Soul On Ice and Dry Ice.
Protection
Not much. An old bolt, and maybe some small RPs and small Aliens here and there. Best done as a toprope after climbing Sea of Dreams or Soul On Ice.
It's also possible to top-rope this route from the big tree atop Dreamscape and Sea of Dreams, but you'll have to belay from the top and lower your partner down and have them climb back up. A 70m rope isn't long enough to rap down to the start of Flying Vee from this tree.
I led this pitch today thinking it would be a R rating.... my first piece of pro was the fixed pin about 25ft up? depending on your ethics you could probably reach over and clip a bolt on the .11 to the right.... from there it was up to the old bolt and to a decent stance in the corner where you can fiddle in two of the small BD nuts... also up and right in a downward flake I got a .00 TCU and a half-in-a crack #1 Camalot, both pulled when I bounced tested them as I cleaned on rap. They are a good psychological piece...from there, it's some commiting moves to a good small cam, I got two in, all the holds appear as you climb, something that added to the commiting nature I thought. Not a route to push the grades on.
RSS Feed
