Hunky Monkey 

You can just barely avoid the water to get on this route as of 6/23/04. A lot of fun and varied climbing on this. The crux 3rd pitch is definitely well protected and hard. The "delicate" face moves after the steep section are amazingly thin. I agree that this one will be a classic after some more traffic cleans it up a bit.

Fun climb with various moves. I've done it with two people so far, and they agreed it was sweet. I found out today that the end of the third pitch really sucks in the rain.

By the way, it isn't just left of Divination. It is just right of Autumn. From what I could tell, it looks like there's another line in between Hunky Monkey and Divination.

Thanks for posting the photo Lon!

Just to clarify, Hunky Monkey starts just left of the direct start to Divination (12a) - see the descriptions of Divination, Divination Direct, and Dynomonometer (frequently confused for Divination). I keep meaning to take a camera into Dream and shoot a photo so that we can clarify the new and used routes.

Lon Black set up a top route for me and my group on this, the best route I've yet climbed in my first outdoor season. It has all the moves I like to do: laybacks, sidepulls, mantles, and even a combination heel-hook and mantle underneath and to the right of the roof about three-quarters of the way up the first pitch.

The route is more mentally challenging than physically challenging, which I like, because I don't have the finger strength yet to do the crimpy stuff. The holds are just deliciously positive once you find them. You have to look hard, but there's usually a comfortable position from which to do so.

Did I mention you get to listen to the rushing stream while you climb? Wonderful! Highly recommended.

If I were on lead I'd want a two-foot runner for one of the clips near the top, as well as one piece of supplemental pro to protect the long reach over the roof. But I can't stand falling on lead, so I always overdo the pro.

Ensure you have a rope bag or tarp, otherwise your rope may get wet -- you have to belay from right next to the water.

An excellent climb; on a par with its neighbor Autumn. If you don't have time for the whole climb, just do the first pitch: steep, enjoyable climbing that comes in around 10a or 10b. The second pitch also seems to be about 10a, with the crux right off the belay. The third pitch has two crux sections: the hand and finger crack, and the upper slab. Both are solid 11. The fourth pitch overhang crux felt about mid-range 10; easier if you're tall.

One of the finest climbs I've done in Upper Dream Canyon.

Hunky Monkey is a good addition to Lost Angel Wall. Although slightly over-graded and over-bolted; it's high-quality and will clean up w/ traffic. A couple key flakes on the p3 crux headwall were flexing and about to snap, but it shouldn't change the grade since other ample holds exist. Really only a 2 pitch climb -- it's easy to combine p1/2 and p3/4 since the 2nd and 4th pitches are way short, make sure to bring enough draws if you do this. Overall, a fun route.

This climb still has some loose stuff on it. I took a 25 footer as I was approaching the P1 anchor, when a foot broke off. Fun line, that should get better as it cleans up. Be careful...

P1 seemed about 10a/b, P2 10a, P3 11a. Didn't do P4, not knowing it existed. P3 looks ugly but climbs nicely. The slab above the steep headwall is contrived but fun.

Lots of trad gear potential on P1-P3. Would have been better in my opinion as a mixed climb.

And, it appears that part of this WAS climbed trad--no one has yet mentioned the stacked pins on P2: A Leeper Z with another pin stacked, in a horizontal as you move right .

A 70m rope gets you down easily from the top of P2. Don't know if a 60m works.

I did this whole route today and really enjoyed it.I agree that this is an excellent addition to this wall. I have done this with 2 people now and the consesus so far is that the first pitch is about 9+/10a, the second about 10a, and the third 11a. We thought the last pitch was 10c and is a really short and fun. The very crux for me is the move after the steep section on pitch 3 stepping left into the bowl and then continuing up the arete and left side of the arete. This probably could be avoided in the crack to the right but would remove one of the best cruxes on the route.

So the debate probably will never end about this kind of thing but it was clear to me that competent trad climber armed with modern TCUs could lead the 1st, 2nd, 4th and part of the third pitch completely on trad gear very safely. Ivan pointed out the stacked pitons on the second pitch and there is an old bolt at the first belay that would tend to suggest to me this line was climbed long before the bolts were put in. However, it is a sport area so I clipped the bolt and enjoyed. Very fun all the way to the top.

Went back to this, and this time did the last pitch. It's a bit contrived, but fun. You can rap from the top in 2 rappels with a 70m rope. Linking P1 and P2 is possible with care. The finger and hand jams on P3 were very wet 12+ hours after a heavy rain, but it was still climbable.

The guy that says you could lead this trad has his head up his arse, that goes for the 5.9+ too..

I'm gonna dissent from the "consensus" and agree, in part, with Tom Painter (the OP), Scott Hudson & Ron Olsen. P1: Superb, steep climbing with a move or two of .10b. P2: Short but fun, .10a. P3: after the ramp, the headwall starts at .10 something but the finger locks and insecure, flaring hand crack up the ante to strenuous .11b/c while the slab and arete moves above take some wild .11b smearing. P4: easy climbing to the dihedral, one move of .10b/c over the roof.

My rating for P3 is based on several comparisons. First, the exit left from the right leaning hand crack is nearly as hard as some solid Boulder Canyon .11cs -- e.g., Strange Science and Animal Magnetism's second .11c crux. Second, the smearing and edging on the slab and arete were harder than the second pitch of Tales of Power and almost as thin as a few of the .11c moves on the second and third pitches of Earth Voyage.

Lastly, a word of caution about the descent. Two raps with a 70m rope will get you to the ground with about 2' of rope remaining at each rap. However, pulling the rope after the rap from the anchors at the top of P4 to the belay at the top of P2 is a gamble. It's very easy for the end of the rope to wedge in the deep crack between the "prow" and "left-facing dihedral" 10' above the belay at the bottom of P4. It happened to us. If you have a 70m and don't want to gamble, do a short rap down P4, a 90' rap down P3, and a 115' rap from the P2/P3 anchors to the deck.