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Oceanic Wall
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Shiny Toys 

Shiny Toys 

5.9

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 673 page views

Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 15, 2003


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Jean Aschenbrenner cranking the crux roof on Shiny...


Description 

This route is on the far right-hand side of Oceanic Wall (up the ramp a little towards Dream Dome). It follows a blackened stripe of rock. Look for a piton about 15 feet up and two bolts just above the roof. The crux is pulling the roof. Work left after the roof to the two-bolt anchor.


Protection 

Mixed Route, Standard rack. Two bolts and a piton to a double bolt anchor.



Photos of Shiny Toys Slideshow Add Photo
Shiny Toys. Climb up the black streak, turn the crux roof past the bolts, and continue up and left to a 2-bolt anchor.<br /><br />Protection is very sparse.

BETA PHOTO: Shiny Toys. Climb up the black streak, turn the cr...


Comments on Shiny Toys Add Comment
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By Darren O'Connor
Aug 4, 2003

I got a placement below the first piton, but didn't spot the piton itself and was close to 20-25' off the deck before getting a second piece, with definite ground fall potential. The climbing was probably 5.7. Be warned that the piton doesn't look very good and that this route should, in my opinion, not be taken on lightly.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 14, 2004

Rob Curtis - I agree with the last comment, the climb isn't easy to protect, bring a set of nuts and some small cams. Good fun.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 16, 2006
rating: 5.9+ PG13

I agree with Darren, the pro on this route is not abundant. Well protected crux, though. Also, there is currently a wasp's nest just left of this route (we TR'd it with no problem, however).