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Lost Angel
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Primal Cinema 

5.11a

   

FA: R. Rossiter and Bob Horan, 1997
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 270 feet
Views: 157 page views

Submitted By: Bruce Pech on Jul 29, 2002


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Description 

1 3/4 independent pitches crossing a steep to vertical wall link the first pitch of Strange Cargo to the final pitch of Autumn. The entire climb is either three or four pitches long depending on your choice of belays. Worth considering if you've already climbed Strange Cargo, Autumn, Divination, and Zentropa and want to do another moderate sport route on Lost Angel. 1 star for the independent pitches; 2 or 3 stars for the entire route.

Climb the first pitch of Strange Cargo. From the belay, climb a slab on the right and then move back left into a large, right-facing corner. The first bolt is 15' or so above the belay and difficult to spot from below. After a few .10a moves in the corner, diagonal up right following a series of weaknesses in the steep wall and belay on a narrow ledge. The rock on this pitch is friable and loose in places. Be careful. Pull over a .10b bulge just left of the belay ledge and then climb up and right to the rounded arete on the third pitch of Autumn. Either continue up Autumn or, to minimize rope-drag on its insecure finishing moves, down-climb roughly 15'-20' to the belay anchors before beginning Autumn's third pitch. (Rossiter's guidebooks suggest a pendulum to reach the Autumn belay. I thought the slabby down-climbing was reasonable. Your second can protect it by leaving the rope clipped into the second bolt on the arete before descending.)


Protection 

Up to 12 QDs