The 45 degree 10c crux roof is on the left. The ae...
Description
This route is on the far right side of Lost Angel, in the Wake Up Wall area. It starts 10 or so feet to the left of Drop Zone (the rightmost bolt line behind the large pine tree), in the large right-facing dihedral. It follows a thin crack up one overhang (approx 10a?), goes up the face for a short distance, then continues up through another overhang (10c?). Continue up the lichen-encrusted face and either go up until you can walk off to the right, or traverse right and rappel from the bolts at the top of Drop Zone.
Protection
Standard rack. Small cams (finger size) for most of it, and a couple bigger pieces for up higher.
For me, the first overhang was the crux. Perhaps thinner fingers help? Or better footwork? The second overhang was quite a bit easier with good jams and feet. Rossiter's topo shows the second roof as 11a despite a 10c rating in the text.
To get down: Continue to the top up an easy crack or possibly go up a ways and then right to anchors for the two sport climbs to the right. Or do what we did: Place some gear a short ways above the roof, downclimb and clip the anchor bolts just above the roof on the left (The Host 11c/d) and lower, being careful of the rope over the lip. The second cleans the trad anchor, steps down to the bolts and lowers or raps off.
Rolofson's new guide rates the first crux as 11a which makes me feel a lot better. The finger jam is slick, feet are small, and the cam protecting the crux is in a glassy parallel crack, which adds some doubt.
Rolofson calls the second crux 10d, but it feels more like 10a/b to me, although it's intimidating.
You can bypass the first crux by doing a "step" to end up above The Vaino Step. A few feet up the starting corner you can stem out left to a knob. Maneuver your right foot up until you can reach out left to a jug/horn. Swing left onto the slab and clip a bolt or two. This variation is about 5.9 if you're tall enough to reach the horn.
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