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A Brief History of Time 

5.9

   

FA: Richard Rossiter, 1997
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Views: 948 page views

Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001


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BETA PHOTO: A Brief History of Time. Climb the big flake, pla...


Description 

Just down the gully from Gully Washer locate a hand crack in a right facing flake. Climb the crack as it fades over a steep face....where it curves right and fades, climb up and left past a bolt (first crux) on steep slab to a flared crack....follow crack up until you see 2 bolts on slab to the right and traverse to the steep finger crack (might want to extend these cuz of the rope drag and zig-zag nature of the climb below the crack)...crank up this perfect finger crack, thru bulge (crux) and up to easier terrain and a chain anchor...lower 80 feet to the ground.


Protection 

stoppers and small to medium cams, 3 bolts protect blank face.......chain anchor.



Add Photo Photos of A Brief History of Time
Pebby Johns climbing the easy but fun flake at the start.

Pebby Johns climbing the easy but fun flake at the...

Just before clipping the first bolt

Just before clipping the first bolt


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By Mark Ferguson
Jun 21, 2001

This climb is fun and worth doing but it has to be the easiest 5.9 I have ever done. To protect before and after the bolts. All you need is a few medium cams and a blue TCU

By Darin Lang
Jun 22, 2001

If "easy" means "one move wonder", I would agree. The crux move (or two) is solid 9, though.

By shad O'Neel
Jul 23, 2002

Truly a one move wonder, but a decent climb. I thought the bottom was better than the crux, which I found tricky but not exquisite. Still, it was a fun problem, that I'm sure I'll climb again someday. The nut placement through the crux moves is so gorgeous, it almost makes the climb worthy just to place that nut!

By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2002

I don't find this climb to be a one-move wonder. After some easy crack climbing, you step left onto a slab and make some delicate moves up, with an airy traverse right to an insecure stance below a finger crack. Place some great wired nuts and fire the crux moves up the crack. Easier climbing leads to the belay. Good rock, good variety, airy moves: two stars in my book.

By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2002

Fun, airy climbing, but not a Dream Canyon ultra-classic.

By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Jul 15, 2006
rating: 5.9

I really thought this route was pretty fun. 2 cruxes for me: the first was clipping the first bolt from an awkward stance, then second was getting established in the crack. I protected the finger crack crux with a red Alien. Enjoy!

By Craig Quincy
Jul 26, 2007

There's a new bolted route just right of this. 5.10 or so taking the bulge via stemming in the scoop on the right. Fun.

By Greg Miller
From: Boulder,CO
Aug 2, 2007

I top roped the face to the right of this route, your rope runs directly down it when you lower off, fun and balancy.... Climb up a corner to a small roof with a jug at the lip, pull over and use side pulls and a tiny fingerlock to gain a steep blank face.... The crux was reaching to a sloper.... Fun for what it's worth.