BETA PHOTO: A Brief History of Time. Climb the big flake, pla...
Description
Just down the gully from Gully Washer locate a hand crack in a right facing flake. Climb the crack as it fades over a steep face....where it curves right and fades, climb up and left past a bolt (first crux) on steep slab to a flared crack....follow crack up until you see 2 bolts on slab to the right and traverse to the steep finger crack (might want to extend these cuz of the rope drag and zig-zag nature of the climb below the crack)...crank up this perfect finger crack, thru bulge (crux) and up to easier terrain and a chain anchor...lower 80 feet to the ground.
Protection
stoppers and small to medium cams, 3 bolts protect blank face.......chain anchor.
This climb is fun and worth doing but it has to be the easiest 5.9 I have ever done. To protect before and after the bolts. All you need is a few medium cams and a blue TCU
Truly a one move wonder, but a decent climb. I thought the bottom was better than the crux, which I found tricky but not exquisite. Still, it was a fun problem, that I'm sure I'll climb again someday. The nut placement through the crux moves is so gorgeous, it almost makes the climb worthy just to place that nut!
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Aug 23, 2002
I don't find this climb to be a one-move wonder. After some easy crack climbing, you step left onto a slab and make some delicate moves up, with an airy traverse right to an insecure stance below a finger crack. Place some great wired nuts and fire the crux moves up the crack. Easier climbing leads to the belay. Good rock, good variety, airy moves: two stars in my book.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Aug 23, 2002
Fun, airy climbing, but not a Dream Canyon ultra-classic.
By David Hodges From: Parker, Colorado Jul 15, 2006 rating: 5.9
I really thought this route was pretty fun. 2 cruxes for me: the first was clipping the first bolt from an awkward stance, then second was getting established in the crack. I protected the finger crack crux with a red Alien. Enjoy!
I top roped the face to the right of this route, your rope runs directly down it when you lower off, fun and balancy.... Climb up a corner to a small roof with a jug at the lip, pull over and use side pulls and a tiny fingerlock to gain a steep blank face.... The crux was reaching to a sloper.... Fun for what it's worth.