Not climbed often. Follow the bolt line on the right side of Water slabs. Follow the left edge, then turn right up a thin face (lichen abounds just to the left - hug the right side) before hopping onto a third face moving up and left.
Protection
10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Rossiter incorrectly labels it as 9 bolts.
This is kind of a weird route. The first part is thin and fun. Staying more to the right can make it much harder. Then you make that "right hand turn" when you reach the upper arete. This upper arete is also pretty fun. Climbing right on the arete is a tad airy.
I don't remember this being as hard as some of the other climbs in the canyon. For instance, Mes Amis.
By kevinnlong From: Boulder, CO Jun 6, 2008 rating: 5.9
I thought this was a very good climb, especially for the 5.9 leader. Climbing on the arete in the middle is terrific; it's delicate and somewhat exposed. It's well worth a visit to both climbs in the area.
RSS Feed
