Great lead for the aspiring 5.9 leader - low angle slab requiring good footwork - smearing and thin edging. Well protected with the crux around the 4th bolt.
Protection
Eight well spaced bolts, easily approached for top roping off of the anchors.
Very nice pitch. Thin footholds; solid 5.9, I thought. Definitely better of the two Waterslab pitches, though Mary Lynn's is well worthwhile since you're there. Joe L.
This is a great climb. Thin footholds and not much for hands mark the crux (which i think is around the 4th bolt). The first time I tried this climb I couldn't get passed the crux. The second time I tried it, a week later, I was able to lead it (with 2 falls). I'm 5'6" and I can't really get that great hand hold for you left hand at the crux. I had to do a half-mantle thing, and put my feet up really high, and then go for that left hold... It's a great move.
I thought this was harder than 5.9 compared to it's neighbor, Mary Lynn's Slab, I would rate this at 5.9+ at least. But I'm short and can't really reach that key hold... The first section of Leviathon is rated 5.10a and I thought this was significantly harder than that one.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Jul 19, 2004 rating: 5.10a
I agree with James; the crux traverse is more like 10a than 9: thin handholds and only smears for the feet, with a big reach left to get the bomber hold at the end of the traverse.
By DavidH From: Parker, Colorado Jun 26, 2006 rating: 5.10a
I thought this route was pretty fun. It's good footwork practice and IMHO goes at 10a.
By Dave Pilot From: Boulder, CO Jul 13, 2008 rating: 5.10-
Agreed, somewhat of a sandbag. Plenty of bolts, however, makes this one a very safe lead.
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