Warm up on P1, then think laterally on the next couple of interesting, tenuous, challenging pitches. Another route that I've only done the first pitch of. Shares first 2 bolts of Rock Odyssey, then heads up and right to an independent anchor. Next 2 pitches look good, but I haven't gotten around to doing them.
Protection
Fully bolted. Most only do the first pitch at 10c.
That explains it! A couple of years ago I toproped this and had no trouble, even though I wasn't climbing that well. Today I hung all over the traverse, trying and failing multiple ways. I finally found a way that worked for me at maybe mid 10. And that is...Undercling the crack and reach up left for a good flake. Move the left foot up higher and stem way right to a decent hold. From there you can reach the good hold.
Does anyone have any idea what the route is whose first pitch starts to the right of Awakenings and whose upper 3 to 4 (short) pitches are just to the left of Awakenings? It is quite enjoyable and has a few spots of hard 5.10 to easy 5.11 climbing. I think that it may be a Dan Hare route (who else?).
P2 is near classic: at 95', it's fairly long for a Boulder Canyon sport pitch and features an excellent progression of difficulty, starting w/ easy slabbing then getting steeper and harder almost all the way to the anchors. If this pitch were at Animal World or Easter Rock, it would see a lot of action and be slathered in chalk; as it is, it could use more traffic, having some lichen and a couple of inconvenient bushes near the end.
From the end of P2, you can lower or rap w/ a single 60m rope or you could do the third pitch, a sparsely bolted 5.9 which tops out.
We took a yellow and a red Alien, using the red (I think) at the start of P2 where there is a big gap between bolts and both on P3.
The second pitch of this climb is very dirty, and I ripped off two dinner plates right at the crux, almost hospitalizing my dad (on fathers day no doubt). The first hold I tore off was glued on, but obviously not well enough, and the second was a bit higher- a foothold. I did not think that it increased the difficulty of the climb much, but just to warn climbers of the loose shit.
Too bad cause if this pitch was clean it would be very enjoyable.
Lost Angel
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