This route begins at the farthest left portion of dry ground (at least, during low water) on Lost Angel. Some tricky moves off the deck (crux) lead to easy 5.10 climbing up a black-streaked headwall.
The second pitch climbs up and left, tackling a small roof at mid-height, and reaches a belay after 70 feet.
Third pitch is somewhat tricky and not very sustained. One can either walk off or rappel.
More on route start: if you e heading south down the river, it's about 20 feet before you get to dry land, at which point Lost Angel starts ramping up to the right.
Not bad route. P1 felt like balancy 10d or so for the first three bolts. P2 is is moderate 10. About 15 feet up, you reach a small ledge - on the right side is a NASTY DEATH BLOCK. Watch out! P3 is a sequency finish - don't be afraid to follow the crack in the corner to the left near the top, and then move back right for the final two bolts.
It's well known that Bob Horan established this aptly named three-pitch bolt line. The first moves are maybe 10b, and the cruxy topout is 10b/c (my opinion) though it's the one move that officially makes this route an 11. There is a 5.9 exit for the timid, but you'll still have to climb 10b to get to it. Named "Autumn" because every other time of the year you're gonna get your feet wet.
If you plan on rappelling in to this climb, find the anchors that are for Strange cargo, and look to the left (uphill) for the gully leading out over the face. I chose to have my buddy belay me to these anchors, as it is somewhat sketchy getting down to them unroped. three raps.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Aug 23, 2002
This is my favorite route in Upper Dream Canyon. I find it sustained, interesting, and fun climbing for all three pitches. The first pitch starts with hard (10c) moves past the first two bolts, then eases for a bit before climbing a steep headwall to the belay.Fun, varied face moves for the entire pitch. The second pitch continues up the steep wall, cranks a roof to the left, and works up to a belay at a small stance. More fun steep face moves on this pitch as well. The third pitch starts with some fun slab moves, then works up to a steep committing layback, and finishes with a steep and pumpy face with an insecure exit move to the right. Rappel the route, or walkoff to the left. The water level was very low on 8/23/02; no problem keeping your feet or the rope out of the creek at the start of the climb. Quality climbing for the entire route - three stars - a Dream Canyon classic not to be missed.
There's about a foot of water at the base of the route but a strategically placed tree tunk and boulder allows one to spill the rope, belay, and access the route without getting wet. This route is of high quality and it definitely deserves three stars.
Fantastic route. The opening moves are a harsh warm up with good, but reachy holds. Really interesting and varied climbing. The final headwall on the last pitch is exciting and hard. I thought the crux was the top-out.
Anyone know what the new-ish route is to the right of Autumn? It's the bolted line between Divination and Autumn. The first two pitches seemed mid-tenish but the third was desperate. Very good route, though...
FA: update. Bob Horan and R. Rossiter, 1997. Vice Versa for Primal Cinama, which joins Autumn at the last pitch: R. Rossiter and Bob Horan, 1997. I list the name first of the person who worked out the line of the route and set up the fixed pro, then name the person who made the actual first ascent with them. Fun routes no?
A 70m rope gets you down from the top of P2. About 1 foot of tail of our rope dangled in the water. A 69m rope might be perfect, depending on rope stretch, actual length, etc.
If you pull the rope down to the right, it will mostly slide down the left angling right facing corner system, but some of it will likely fall in the creek.
By Kevin Neilson From: Boulder Oct 2, 2005 rating: 5.11c
Third Pitch: I can't comment on the first two pitches because I somehow got to the third pitch of Autumn from Strange Cargo, via Primal Cinema, I believe. Judging from the chalk, I think a lot of climbers go left around the crux, and the crux itself didn't seem like a 5.11a. I think the book I had called that move 5.11b/c. When I was in the layback, for a while I could move none of my limbs lest I barndoor. The feet are tricky. Then after the layback there is a sketcy move until you can reach a hand-jam and pull up to clip. It was a great pitch though because it required a high degree of balance.
Lost Angel
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