Tales of Power 

1st pitch roof is stiff without extra long reach. 2nd pitch felt much easier.

I suppose the long reach beta is to move hard left to the arete after the last clip, to get to the anchors. This is not necessary.

BETA: First pitch roof can be reached from a strange stem into the corner, left foot on left side and right foot coming from the right side, then into a heal-toe smear in the little acute inset. From there, use a little butt-friction to oppose the left foot and undercling smear the "chunks" above in the corner. Move up to good edges. This is not a height-dependent move, but does actually feel like 11a/b.

I didn't find the roof to be so much reachy as pumpy. However, exiting to the anchors at the end of P1 felt reachy. I ended up with some kind of stem/smear/thrash thing to exit left. That felt hard, like 11 a/b, but not in a fun way.

2nd pitch is awesome slab climbing. If it were at Tuolomne or JTree this would probably be a 2-3 bolt, bolted-on-lead (i.e. bolts protecting the easy parts), 5.10c, sphinctor-tightener

Great climbing on both pitches; a Dream Canyon classic.

The first pitch angles up and cranks an airy roof on big jugs, then power laybacks up to the final corner and roof. The final crux can be climbed in several ways, depending on your height; I use some wide stems. Thoroughly interesting and enjoyable.

The second pitch is sustained slab climbing and mantling, with few positive holds for your hands. Delicate finesse slab climbing at its best.

I agree Ron. Fun climb, and the crux can be done different ways depending on one's own body. Tony Bubb says it's done with the stem all the way up to the "chunks", and one person in our group did it that way today. I stemmed lower and then brought my body left and used the left face to reach up and do a fun heel hook to top out. Even though that felt good, another partner did it in a way so smoothly that her's had to be the most efficient, or at least it looked that way for her body. She stemmed to where her left foot was on a decent edge on the left face and the right foot was on the big hold to the right. Then she laid back off her left hand and just lifted her right foot up and left into a cool smearing drop knee kind of position, and then just stood up on it to be able to reach the holds to finish it out. This way seemed the smoothest of the three, but then again, I guess it depends on your own body.

This is one of the best routes that I have done in Dream Canyon. Moving left to the anchors is thought provoking. There are some hidden small crimps on the lip of the overhang that may help. The 2nd pitch is just as good as the first, don't miss out because it is a slab climb.

Fantastic climb. I was going to skip the second pitch, but it looked sooo good. Although a completely different character, it was equally enjoyable.

I thought the first pitch was worthy of two stars. However, the second pitch is one of the five best slab routes in the Canyon.

Great climb. I thought pitch 1 was bolted very thoughtfully. For a 5'4" climber, they can be reached from good stances. Need to go back and do pitch 2 - looks really nice.

I'll second what David said. The 2nd pitch has got to be one of the best pure friction slabs around. It would be a classic no matter what area it was in.

I did P2 again today, and it seemed like it was harder than in the past. I noticed a lot of spots where rock has flaked off. It's still all doable. It's a great pitch, requiring good rubber and balance.