This route is diverse. It begins with a delicate mantle that leads into a more powerful roof. Beyond the roof is nice rest stance. Use it, and then negotiate the crux with small holds and high step move. The rest of the route turns into easy slab climbing, with protection becoming more sparse.
Protection
You'll need quickdraws for 10 bolts and a two-bolt anchor.
Young Doug - This is another fun route. The beginning is all over the place, then you land in a cool sloper-pop-to-undercling thing crux. The upper section along with Sargasso is some of the nicest face climbing in the canyon. Yep.
The initial "mantle" felt about 8 or 9 doing it right of the first bolt, and it wasn't a mantle. Climbing left of the first bolt is hard. Above that, moving right and back left is fun. Does the 12a variation in Rossiter go directly over the ceiling rather than traversing left? The crux is tenuous. Maneuvering prior to doing the move, I felt my hands could pop at any time. The easier face above is way fun with big knobs making the widely spaced bolts seem reasonable.
By Chris O'Connor From: Boulder, Co Apr 30, 2007 rating: 5.11b
The harder variation goes right at the overhang and skirts along the side of the ceiling.
Oceanic Wall
RSS Feed
