This route starts from the center of Oceanic Wall, and climbs 30 feet of easy terrain before bypassing a two-bolt anchor and ascending left as for Leviathon for ~15 feet before breaking right again and climbing a right-leaning lieback feature. Shares an anchor with Leviathon.
Protection
Fully bolted. You can lower from the anchor with a 50m rope.
FYI: the trip up to the two bolt anchor shared by Dream On and Leviathan is 10a, so it makes for a nice short lead if you, like me, don't warm up on the 11s. That is, if you can get on it. Notoriously crowded, unless you make a mid December visit and climb near the frozen creek. Not recommended.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO May 6, 2002 rating: 5.11b
The second to last clip is admittedly difficult, and it took me for a fall, but I don't think this pitch is really on-par with the 11c/d grade. Maybe I'd call it 11b?
Not that fun of a route, but 11b??? I don't know about that...I haven't had to hang (and twice at that) on a mid-5.11 sport climb in years. If Sargasso Sea and Mud Shark are 12a, then this route is more like 12a/b.
Of the three upper pitches above the initial 10a pitch, this one is the easiest for me. It is by no means easy, but relative to the one to the left and the one to the right, it is a touch easier. The left pitch has a crux that seems a little harder than this one, and the right route feels at least a grade harder.
By Aeon Aki From: Boulder, CO May 9, 2007 rating: 5.11c
After a decent rest, the crux sequence is very sustained: 5.11 holds but feels like 5.12 while maneuvering to get yourself into the correct position to make the holds work right. Nevertheless, it is a great place to practice taking some whippers. The first bolt you need to clip as you establish in the seam is very difficult to clip but the one below it makes it too far to skip to fall safely if you blow it.
Oceanic Wall
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