Midnight Rock

BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, left side. A. The Cage 9+ R, gear....

Description 

A number good routes here and there with most of the quality routes in the 11-12 range. A 60m rope may be required to lower off some routes.

A total of 25 routes, most sport routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, are documented in Mark Rolofson's new guidebook Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Vol. I: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon.

A number of new routes have been developed here in the past few years by Vaino Kodas and partners; see Vaino's Midnight Rock routes for details.

L->R lower rock, starting from the ground (incomplete):

A. The Cage, 9+ R, 70', gear.
B. Birds Of Prey, 10 R, gear.
C. Cirque Du Soleil, 12, 50', bolts.
D. Hammer Down, 11, 60', bolts.
E. Union With Earth, 10+, gear & bolts.
F. Around Midnight, 13?, bolts & pin.
G. Flake Out, 12, 80', bolts.
H. Meltdown, 10+, 80', bolts.
I. Pirate Radar, 11+, bolts & pins & gear.
J. Jet Stream, 12-, gear & bolts.
K. Midnight Cowboy, 12-, 90', bolts.
L. Midnight Express, 10+, 90', gear.
M. After Midnight, 11c, bolts.
N. The Stroke Of Midnight, 10+, 90', bolts.
O. Weather Report, 9-, 80', bolts.
P. Crack A Smile, 11, 80', bolts & gear.
Q. Grand Finale, 12+ PG-13, bolts.
R. Voila, 12-, bolts.


Upper Ledge L->R:

AA. Engine, 10+, 50', gear & bolts.
BB. The Caboose, 11, 50', bolts.
CC. Karma Kamelian, 11+ PG-13, 90', bolts.
DD. Headwall, 12?, bolts.
EE. Geminae Cracks, 13-, 40', bolts & gear.
FF. Rycessica, 10+, 1p, 25', gear.
GG. Deux Ex Machina, 11, 60', bolts.
HH. Dyno Mart, 12-, 60', bolts.

. Pirate Radio

Getting There 

Hike as you would to Lost Angel from the parking lot. Take the big gully to the East of Lost Angel down to the rock.

The Classics

Featured Route For Midnight Rock

Voila 5.12a  CO : Boulder : ... : Midnight Rock

Located up and around the corner to the right from Weather Report. Climb the steep colorful wall just right of Grande Finale. 11 bolts to a two bolt anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Midnight Rock Slideshow

Add Photo

BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, upper right side. Deus Ex Machina ...	BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...	Midnight Rock, photo: Bob Horan.