Another great wall. The biggest piece of granite in the Boulder area. This is the main attraction for climbers in Upper Dream Canyon. There is a mix of bolted and trad moderate climbs here; however, the predominant protection is currently bolts. The rock is fairly big and finding your exact route can take a bit of effort. Routes range from 1 to 5 pitches here. Some of the starts can become trickier during the spring runoff.
On the northern end of the canyon, on the east side. The easiest access is via CO Hwy 119 (aka Boulder Canyon) to Sugarloaf Rd to the dirt road Lost Angel Rd. There is a small parking area.
This one is the farthest left route on Zen Garden wall, the far left and upper part of Lost angel. Scramble down gully to large tree with 2 bolt anchor opposite the tree. Cruise up the perfect hand/finger crack as it gets smaller and turns to seam above...then to blank face with 2 bolts until you reach anchor (~60 feet). You can TR 5 other cracks to the right of this one from the anchor....fun area to practice jamming and slabs.......[more]
It's not a big deal, but there are too many climbs here under Lost Angel. It would be nice to separate them out under sub-crags. For example, it is not easy now to find all the climbs on the Zen Garden Wall, or Wake Up Wall. These two areas are both under Lost Angel although they are probably nearly 1/4 mile apart!
Navigation to the base of these climbs is complex and confusing. But that is part of the fun of Dream Canyon! The map above is a great help, although there is room for improvement.
Lost Angel
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