Another great wall. Some of the routes are fully bolted, some require a few pieces of gear in addition to the bolts, and some are a bit runout.
Routes L->R:
The first five routes start up the approach gully left of Wrinkles In Time. Bring gear for belay anchors at the start, or climb the approach gully as part of the pitch. You can also access these routes via rappel (two ropes) from one of the trees at the top of Dream Dome.
A. Dreamscape 8, 6 bolts, tree anchor. B. Sea of Dreams 11a, 8 bolts, tree anchor. C. Flying Vee 10a R-X, 1 old bolt, 1 old pin, small gear. 2-bolt anchor. D. Soul on Ice 11b PG, 9 bolts, 2-bolt anchor. E. Dry Ice, 11c PG, 9 bolts plus gear, 2-bolt anchor.
The next route starts at the base of the approach gully. Climb the gully as part of the first pitch.
F. Stained Glass, 2 pitches. P1: 11a, 9 bolts plus gear, 2-bolt anchor. P2: 10c to 11b, 6 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.
The following routes start right of the approach gully. All pitches have a 2-bolt anchor.
G. Wrinkles In Time, 2 pitches. P1: 9, 8 bolts & small gear at start. P2: 7, 5 bolts plus optional #1 Camalot. H. Phantasmagoria, 2 pitches. P1: 11a, 3 bolts & gear. P2: 10a, 2 bolts plus gear. I. Tales of Power, 2 pitches. P1: 11b, 9 bolts. P2: 11a, 7 bolts. J. Journey to Ixtlan 11a, 6 bolts. K. Red Limit 12c A0, 8 bolts. Still awaiting a redpoint. M. A Brief History of Time 9, 3 bolts & gear. N. Gully Washer 9, 6 bolts. O. Wet Dreams 10a, 1 bolt. Climb black streak right of Gully Washer. Toprope from Gully Washer anchor.
Getting There
On the far north end of Dream Canyon, on the east side. It's situated just to the right of Oceanic Wall and to the left of Lost Angel wall.
From the upper end of the parking area, walk west about 150' down the road and take the trail on the left, next to a fence. Follow this trail down toward the creek, next to a split-rail fence. Near the bottom, you'll pass Thunder Point and the Icon. At the bottom, right next to the creek, you'll get to Oceanic Wall. Climb up left on talus on the right side of Oceanic Wall. You'll get to Dream Dome by the the route Wrinkles In Time. Approach time: 15 minutes.
The first five routes can be accessed via a two-rope rappel from one of the trees at the top of Dream Dome. Look for a trail cutting off to the left (blocked by small logs and branches) as you're walking down the main trail toward the creek. A short walk on this trail takes you to the top of Dream Dome above the routes Dreamscape and Sea of Dreams.
This route starts in the approach gully, right of Sea of Dreams and left of Dry Ice (an obvious left-facing corner system.) An absolutely amazing arete route on perfect granite. If you don't like this one, you might as well cut short your visit to Dream Canyon and give up. The route is sustained and excellent throughout. ...[more]
A note on the approach. We made the error of descending all the way into the canyon to climb Dreamscape. It is a tricky approach to the left routes from here involving some unroped climbing up a narrow slot. Much easier to rappel to the routes (from trees) which are only about 5 minutes from the car! Our first time in there and it can be confusing.
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