Another great wall. Some of the routes are fully bolted, some require a few pieces of gear in addition to the bolts, and some are a bit runout.
Routes L->R:
The first five routes start up the approach gully left of Wrinkles In Time. Bring gear for belay anchors at the start, or climb the approach gully as part of the pitch. You can also access these routes via rappel (two ropes) from one of the trees at the top of Dream Dome.
A. Dreamscape 8, 1p, bolts, tree anchor. B. Sea of Dreams 11-, 1p, bolts, tree anchor. C. Flying Vee 10a R-X, 1p, bolt, pin, & small gear. 2-bolt anchor. D. Soul on Ice 11 PG, 1p, bolts, bolt anchor. E. Dry Ice, 11 PG, 1p, bolts & gear, bolt anchor.
The next route starts at the base of the approach gully. Climb the gully as part of the first pitch.
On the far north end of Dream Canyon, on the east side. It's situated just to the right of Oceanic Wall and to the left of Lost Angel wall.
From the upper end of the parking area, walk west about 150' down the road and take the trail on the left, next to a fence. Follow this trail down toward the creek, next to a split-rail fence. Near the bottom, you'll pass Thunder Point and the Icon. At the bottom, right next to the creek, you'll get to Oceanic Wall. Climb up left on talus on the right side of Oceanic Wall. You'll get to Dream Dome by the the route Wrinkles In Time. Approach time: 15 minutes.
The first five routes can be accessed via a two-rope rappel from one of the trees at the top of Dream Dome. Look for a trail cutting off to the left (blocked by small logs and branches) as you're walking down the main trail toward the creek. A short walk on this trail takes you to the top of Dream Dome above the routes Dreamscape and Sea of Dreams.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dream Dome:
Start 70' uphill from Wrinkles in Time at a slab leading to a right-facing corner capped by a roof. P1. Climb up right to a small roof and pull it on the right. Layback up to a right-facing corner, then move left and up past a roof to a 2-bolt anchor on the slab. 11b, 80', 9 bolts.P2. Climb up the slab on an obvious black waterstreak to a 2-bolt anchor. Delicate friction climbing and manteling. 11a, 70', 7 bolts....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
A note on the approach. We made the error of descending all the way into the canyon to climb Dreamscape. It is a tricky approach to the left routes from here involving some unroped climbing up a narrow slot. Much easier to rappel to the routes (from trees) which are only about 5 minutes from the car! Our first time in there and it can be confusing.
It seems there are two or three more bolted lines past the Gulley Wash/Wet Dreams bolts now. I only had time for one and it was well bolted, and a really fun moderate (5.9+-5.10a) route. It was not the next one over from those bolts but the one after that. Bring 11 quickdraws.
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