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Dream Dome

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A Brief History of Time 
Dreamscape 
Dry Ice 
Flying Vee 
Gully Washer 
Journey to Ixtlan 
New Route Right of A Brief History 
Phantasmagoria 
Red Limit 
Sea of Dreams 
Soul on Ice 
Stained Glass 
Tales of Power 
Wet Dreams 
Wrinkles in Time 

Dream Dome

Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Views: 13,393 page views

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  Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!

BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon

Modified from origin...



Description 

Another great wall. Some of the routes are fully bolted, some require a few pieces of gear in addition to the bolts, and some are a bit runout.

Routes L->R:

The first five routes start up the approach gully left of Wrinkles In Time. Bring gear for belay anchors at the start, or climb the approach gully as part of the pitch. You can also access these routes via rappel (two ropes) from one of the trees at the top of Dream Dome.

A. Dreamscape 8, 1p, bolts, tree anchor.
B. Sea of Dreams 11-, 1p, bolts, tree anchor.
C. Flying Vee 10a R-X, 1p, bolt, pin, & small gear. 2-bolt anchor.
D. Soul on Ice 11 PG, 1p, bolts, bolt anchor.
E. Dry Ice, 11 PG, 1p, bolts & gear, bolt anchor.

The next route starts at the base of the approach gully. Climb the gully as part of the first pitch.

F. Stained Glass, 11-, 2p. P1: 11-, bolts & gear, bolt anchor. P2: 10-11, bolts, bolt anchor.

The following routes start right of the approach gully. All pitches have bolt anchors.

G. Wrinkles In Time, 9, 2p. P1: 9, bolts & small gear. P2: 7, bolts & optional #1 Camalot.
H. Phantasmagoria, 2 p, 11-, P1: 11a, bolts & gear. P2: 10-, bolts & gear.
I. Tales of Power, 11, 2p. P1: 11b, bolts. P2: 11-, bolts.
J. Journey to Ixtlan 11-, 1p, bolts.
K. Red Limit 12c A0, bolts. Awaits redpoint.
M. A Brief History of Time 9, 1p, bolts & gear.
N. New Route Right of A Brief History, 9+, 1p, bolts, 85'.
O. Gully Washer 9, 1p, bolts.
P. Wet Dreams 10-, 1p, bolt. Black streak R of O. TR from O's anchor.


Getting There 

On the far north end of Dream Canyon, on the east side. It's situated just to the right of Oceanic Wall and to the left of Lost Angel wall.

From the upper end of the parking area, walk west about 150' down the road and take the trail on the left, next to a fence. Follow this trail down toward the creek, next to a split-rail fence. Near the bottom, you'll pass Thunder Point and the Icon. At the bottom, right next to the creek, you'll get to Oceanic Wall. Climb up left on talus on the right side of Oceanic Wall. You'll get to Dream Dome by the the route Wrinkles In Time. Approach time: 15 minutes.

The first five routes can be accessed via a two-rope rappel from one of the trees at the top of Dream Dome. Look for a trail cutting off to the left (blocked by small logs and branches) as you're walking down the main trail toward the creek. A short walk on this trail takes you to the top of Dream Dome above the routes Dreamscape and Sea of Dreams.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dream Dome:
Wrinkles in Time   5.8+     Sport, 2 pitches   
A Brief History of Time   5.9     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
Gully Washer   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch   
New Route Right of A Brief History   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Soul on Ice   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Tales of Power   5.11b     Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet   
Stained Glass   5.11c     Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet   
Browse More Classics in Dream Dome

Featured Route For Dream Dome
Brent Pohlmann with his hand on the finishing hold <br />of the first pitch of Tales of Power.

Tales of Power 5.11b  CO : Boulder : ... : Dream Dome
Start 70' uphill from Wrinkles in Time at a slab leading to a right-facing corner capped by a roof. P1. Climb up right to a small roof and pull it on the right. Layback up to a right-facing corner, then move left and up past a roof to a 2-bolt anchor on the slab. 11b, 80', 9 bolts.P2. Climb up the slab on an obvious black waterstreak to a 2-bolt anchor. Delicate friction climbing and manteling. 11a, 70', 7 bolts....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Dream Dome Slideshow Add Photo
The Dream Dome. Photo: Bob Horan

The Dream Dome. Photo: Bob Horan

View from the base of 'Wrinkles in Time', Oct. '09.

View from the base of 'Wrinkles in Time', Oct. '09...

Dream wood.

Dream wood.


Comments on Dream Dome Add Comment
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By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 30, 2003

A note on the approach. We made the error of descending all the way into the canyon to climb Dreamscape. It is a tricky approach to the left routes from here involving some unroped climbing up a narrow slot. Much easier to rappel to the routes (from trees) which are only about 5 minutes from the car! Our first time in there and it can be confusing.

By Nick Fury
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 17, 2009

It seems there are two or three more bolted lines past the Gulley Wash/Wet Dreams bolts now. I only had time for one and it was well bolted, and a really fun moderate (5.9+-5.10a) route. It was not the next one over from those bolts but the one after that. Bring 11 quickdraws.