Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Flatiron Queen Anne's Head WC Fields Pinnacle The Ghetto East Ironing Board West Ironing Board The Fin Green Thumb Jaws
This cluster of rocks is a bit of a maze with scrambling of some sort required to locate and do most of the climbing. Once one route is found, the rest are far easier to locate. The routes are 30' to 50' tall and Face North, South, and West, offering shade or sun at different times of day. Most are vertical or within a few degrees of it, and ascend on slopers and crimps, but there is one exception- an Offwidth rated 5.9. The rock is generally quite solid.
The name of the area is apparently derived from a fairly large protected area, which although not really a cave perhaps, certainly resembles one. "Hell's Mansion" as it was apparently once known is pretty large, and no doubt has served various uses over time. The imagination wonders to what the area route called "Your Cave or Mine" might refer to?
Save for the offwidth, most of the routes here are pretty difficult, if not utterly sandbagged, and are by no means good warmups for the average climber. Beware.
Getting There
From the Main trail to the Sacred Cliffs, go right (South) along the ridge line, staying West of the actual ridge when forced off of the edge by rock. You will pass by the Name Game Area and reach the Cave Complex area. The first route seen will likely be 'The Junkyard' a 4-bolt 5.12 with all of the hangers removed, just left of a pine tree growing up the West Face of the flat red face. All Route directions will come roughly from there.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cave Complex: