Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Slab
Show routes:
Select route...
Boys with Power Toys 
Bulges 
Diagonal 
Family Man 
Junior Niblits 
Just Another Boy's Climb 
k00kEEz n krEEm 
Keyhole, The 
Left 'N Up 
Nasty Boys 
Northeast Arete 
Return of Dow, The 
s00krEEm 
Shalohsh 
Sweet NiBLitz 
Syzygy 
Undertow 
Whipping Post 

Nasty Boys 

5.12

   

FA: Fred Knapp, Lynn Hill 9-29-09
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 136 page views

Submitted By: Fred Knapp on Sep 29, 2009


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

This is a route I began bolting 20 years ago. Before I could finish it, the OSMP banned bolting. When Chris Beh bolted a line to the right, it was obvious that I could use his finish. Nasty Boys traverses right from Just Another Boy's Climb at about the third bolt. It's a continuous line with a few mini-cruxes and a big pump. Some long runners carefully placed can be useful for rope drag. I'd also recommend reaching down and unclipping the first bolt above the belay on Boy's Climb after you've clipped the second. It's a little run to the second bolt on the traverse (but I fell from there on my first burn and it is totally safe). With a long runner on this bolt, you could clip it before making the hard moves. All in all a super airy, pumpy route.

Maybe I should rename the route for the 2000s. I named it for a song in the late '80s.


Location 

The Slab. Begins up Boy's Climb and makes a traverse to the right before heading up.


Protection 

Maybe 15 QDs including the anchor.