Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock
This is a continuos, steep to slightly overhanging crack system with fist to finger jams and a reachy exit move at the top. One the best cracks for its grade in the Flatirons.
Location
Located on the lower east end of the south face of the Matron. From the southeast end of the Matron hike up slope a short distance to the prominent, left-leaning crack/corner system. Climb up from a large block and begin jamming up the fist to finger crack, exit right over a bulge to the belay, rap station.
Protection
Gear up to a #4 Friend with rappel station at the top.
Anchor needs work! There was one bolt with a runner nest, including one relatively new sling, and two stoppers that had popped out and were hanging from the sling. We re-set one stopper and backed it up with a cam for toproping, then the last person rapped from the bolt and stopper.
The first half is quite dirty (pigeon shit) and loose in places, but the climbing is interesting and continuous. The last half is great fun and the whole thing would clean up with a little work.