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Dinosaur Rock
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West Face [Dinosaur Rock] 

Pretty in Pinkler 

5.11c

   

FA: Matt Samet, Paul Glover
New Route: Yes
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Season: spring, summer, fall
Views: 88 page views

Submitted By: msamet on Jul 17, 2008


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On the crux mini-roof of Pretty in Pinkler.


Description 

This is the leftmost line toproped to date on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, up pretty, grey-green fluted rock ending at the "pinnacle" of a little spire/ledge on the wall's left side. The climbing is crimpy but positive.


Location 

Far left side of the north face of Dinosaur Rock.


Protection 

1. Ascend the west face of Dinosaur Rock (4th class/5.0). Drop over the summit to a small ledge on the east face, eight feet down.

2. On this ledge, tie a rigging rope (static line) through a hole/thread in a big flake. You could back this up with cams or other flakes/horns there. Rap down this 120 feet along the east, slabby face, looking for the ledge where this climb ends. (I got over here by traversing while belayed by a toprope on The Shaft, but you might be better off coming straight to it; the intrepid/sketchy could solo up the east slabs from the ground.)

3. Build an anchor by slinging the top of the pinnacle with a cordelette and backing it up with a #2 Camalot, a green C3, and a Metolius 4 or 5.

4. You shouldn't need any directionals on the way down.



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By msamet
Jul 17, 2008

Paul G also freed the moves on the direct start on toprope, but I can't remember if he bothered to link it to the top. It seemed about 12a if you can make the span into the crack -- Pink Man's Burden is the name.